Thinking of an incredible adventure through the Scottish Highlands? The West Highland Way is a 96-mile, long-distance trail running through Scotland. It starts in Milngavie, heads up past the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and through Rannoch Moor and Glencoe to finish in Fort William. It’s the trip of a lifetime – and one of the best trips I’ve done so far! Here’s my detailed itinerary for hiking the West Highland Way in 7 days.

Introduction to the West Highland Way

I chose to do the West Highland Way over 7 days, and have one rest day in Glencoe. Building in a rest day was something I learned from Hadrian’s Wall – it really helped having a day to give my legs/knees and shoulders a break. Glencoe was a great place to have a rest day! I specifically planned my rest day here so that I’d have a break after my long, 20-mile day on Day 5. But also because I really wanted to see more of Glencoe – somewhere I visited briefly in 2018 and haven’t seen much of since. As the trail starts in Milngavie, just outside Glasgow, it’s easy to get to the starting point.

If you’re just starting your planning, I recommend buying the Trailblazer West Highland Way guidebook. This is an excellent resource and gives loads of information about the trail! I used this in conjunction with the OS Maps app for navigating on the hike. But the West Highland Way is very well-signposted, so you shouldn’t struggle too much on the trail. Read my full packing list here!

I gave myself a limit of about 15 miles per day. Any longer than that, and I worried I’d get too run down. I also know that I personally feel mentally stressed when I have more than 15 miles in a day – all I can think about it what a long day it will be, and I find that quite mentally draining. My longest day was Day 5, from Tyndrum to Kingshouse. This was just under 20 miles. I could have broken up this day break up at Bridge of Orchy, but I didn’t want to add on an extra day when I was already planning on a rest day. Here’s a quick snapshot of how I broke up the trail over 7 days of hiking.

• Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen (12 miles)
• Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan (15 miles)
• Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan (14 miles)
• Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum (12 miles)
• Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse (19 miles)
• Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (9 miles)
• Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William (15 miles)

Throughout this trip, I chose to stay in hostels/bunkhouses. You can certainly camp along the way if you’d like. If you’re planning to wild camp, remember the byelaws will be in effect around the eastern shore of Loch Lomond from March-September. I love camping, but I chose to stay in accommodation for the ease and comfort of having a (warm/dry) place to sleep each night, and so that I didn’t have to carry all my camping gear with me. A camping itinerary will look different to this one – but if you’re planning on staying in accommodation, I’ve included where I stayed in my daily breakdown. Wondering how much money I spent? Read my West Highland Way budget guide!

Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen

Mileage: 12 miles (Strava: 12.70 miles)

Where I Stayed: Kip in the Kirk

This was the best accommodation I had during the West Highland Way. I had fresh scones and tea waiting for me, courtesy of Frances – our host for the night, and well-versed in what hikers need. I stayed in the 8-bed dorm room, and the price included an absolute FEAST for breakfast in the morning. The perfect way to start another busy day of hiking!

Highlights of the Day

This is the least-exciting day of the trail, as you leave city life behind and head into the great outdoors. The starting point, Milngavie, is easily accessed by train from Glasgow Queen Street (it takes about 25 minutes). Most of the hiking is on tracks, with some paved sections and some road walking.

The WHW Marker in Milngavie

This obelisk, in the main street in Milngavie, marks the start of the West Highland Way. You can’t do this trail without stopping to snap a photo here! The trail then starts with an art installation of different places you’ll see on the West Highland Way.

The view towards Conic Hill near Easter Carbeth

As the West Highland Way turns off the B821 and goes past Dumgoyach, you’ll be greeted to a beautiful view of Conic Hill in the distance. I loved this landscape – it really felt like I was getting into the countryside. Plus, it was great to get a view of the hill I’d be hiking up the next day!

Glengoyne Distillery

A very short detour off the main trail, don’t miss a stop at Glengoyne Distillery. I actually stopped here on my road trip around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs in 2021, and still have some of the whiskey I bought! You only need to cross a field to reach the distillery – they run tours of the distillery and they have a shop.

Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan

Mileage: 15 miles (Strava: 16.21 miles)

Where I Stayed: Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel

This hostel, run by Hostelling Scotland, makes for an excellent stopping point on the eastern shores of Loch Lomond. You can go swimming right from the property, and it’s a great choice if you’re hiking Ben Lomond. There’s a massive fully equipped kitchen, plus they also offer meals here. You can also buy beer/drinks from the shop on site. I was in an 8-bed female-only dorm room, which only had 3 people the night I was there – I think it would have been a bit cramped with all 8 people and their bags. My only complaint was that the showers were only on the ground floor past the kitchen, which wasn’t very convenient for anyone staying on the other floors.

Highlights of the Day

This is where the West Highland Way gets good: you hike up Conic Hill, and descend down to Balmaha to hike along the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond. You cross the geographic boundary fault between the Lowlands and the Highlands at Conic Hill.

Conic Hill

Conic Hill is 361 meters high, and offers sensational views over Loch Lomond and the beautiful Scottish landscape. I did this hike back in 2021 on my trip to Loch Lomond, and saw quite a few people hiking the West Highland Way. It’s a steep climb up to the very summit, but the scenery is a top-notch reward.

Balmaha

The path down Conic Hill to Balmaha is very easy to follow, and stepped in many sections – but it is steep. Have your hiking poles at the ready! Once down, relax at the pub or cafe. There’s also a shop if you’re needing to stock up on any supplies. Don’t miss the Tom Weir statue next to the loch – he was a Scottish TV presenter, author, and outdoors lover.

Loch Lomond

If you fancy a dip, you’re in luck – there are plenty of incredible wild swimming spots along the shores of Loch Lomond north of Balmaha. I swam at Milarrochy – it was quite busy as there’s a large car park, but very convenient for me as there were toilets here! But besides Milarrochy, there are many secluded inlets with rocky beaches perfect for a swim. Loch Lomond will be your companion for the next day and a half as you hike north up the eastern shore.

Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan (Beinglas)

Mileage: 14 miles (Strava: 14.31 miles)

Where I Stayed: Beinglas Farm Campsite (camping cabin)

As far as I’m aware Beinglas Farm Campsite is no longer operating (their lease wasn’t renewed after the 2022 season), but it has been a popular place to stop on the West Highland Way for many years. They had a pub and shop on site, too. I can’t recommend it though, as I got bedbugs during my stay here. I stayed in a camping cabin, and (as I wasn’t carrying my own sleeping bag) rented bedding through the site. Unfortunately, this was just a sleeping bag, sleeping bag liner, and pillow – which came with unnecessary and unwelcome guests. I know renting sleeping bags is an easy way to pick up bedbugs, however I really didn’t have any other choice. I ended up drinking with several guys in the pub all night – so at least I had fun before the bedbugs!

Highlights of the Day

This was one of the most difficult and challenging days of the West Highland Way, due to the terrain. The path is constantly going up and down rocks and tree roots, and it’s difficult (or impossible) to get into your stride. Your pace will be much slower, and this day sapped my energy. However, the only people you will see are others hiking the West Highland Way – this is a truly remote part of the hike, with no roads (access only at Inversnaid).

Feral goats

As you leave Rowardennan, the West Highland Way splits – you can take the low road or the high road. As I heard the high road was easier (it follows a wide track), I took the high road. But this was also to get a glimpse at the feral goats that call this part of Loch Lomond home. I smelled them before I saw them (haha!), and unfortunately I don’t have any good photos to share. But it was cool to see them!

View of the Cobbler

As you continue along Loch Lomond, you’ll come to a clearing with a view straight across the loch. You can see the peak of the Cobbler in the distance – it looks like it’s towering over Loch Lomond. I still haven’t hiked the Cobbler, but I loved getting to spot such a well-known peak!

Inversnaid Falls

This beautiful waterfall is located right on the West Highland Way, next to the Inversnaid Hotel. If you’re feeling hot and sweaty, it’s a good spot to go for a short dip. The hotel is used to a steady stream of walkers, so stop by the restaurant/café or toilets if you need.

There are also plenty of other swim spots along Loch Lomond as you hike north. After you pass Ardleish, you move away from the loch and into the countryside.

Doune Bothy

We all know I love a bothy – so I had to stop in at Doune bothy, right along the trail! This is one of two bothies on this section of the West Highland Way. The other is south of Inversnaid, at Rowchoish. Doune is a classic one-room bothy, but looks like it would be a cozy place to spend the night. As with all bothies, remember you should be prepared to camp if the bothy is full!

Day 4: Inverarnan (Beinglas) to Tyndrum

Mileage: 12 miles (Strava: 12.24 miles)

Where I Stayed: By the Way Hostel

This is a fantastic hostel and campsite in Tyndrum, right on the trail. They have dorm rooms as well as private rooms in the hostel, with a massive kitchen and cozy common room. As well as a campsite, they also have glamping pods, chalets, trekker’s huts, and hobbit houses – plus a small shop on site. My 4-bed dorm was very small, but I had the whole room to myself so I didn’t really mind!

Highlights of the Day

Most of the trail on this day is on a track, going through open land and forest with views of the Crianlarich Hills. If you want, you can make a detour off the trail to Crianlarich – I’ve driven through before and didn’t think there was much more, so I didn’t add in the extra miles. You cross the A82 road more than once – take care, as this can be a busy road with fast cars.

Falls of Falloch

Unfortunately, the Falls of Falloch are best seen on the other side of the River Falloch from the West Highland Way. But you can still see some rapids and rushing river from the south side of the river, so it’s worth a stop.

St. Fillan’s Church (Ruins)

You’ll find the ruins of St. Fillian’s Church near Kirkton Farm, just after you cross the A82. The ruins are all that remains of a small priory, founded in 1318 by Robert the Bruce. Nearby, just past the campsite, is the Holy Pool – it’s right by the river. It’s said to have been blessed by the saint and will supposedly cure insanity.

The Loch of the Legend of the Lost Sword

Just outside of Tyndrum, there’s a beautiful section of the trail through a forestry plantation that was covered in purple heather when I hiked through here at the end of August. Next to a small loch, you’ll find a stone sword marker here. Supposedly, Robert the Bruce’s sword is at the bottom of the loch.

The Green Welly Stop

Have you really hiked the West Highland Way if you haven’t stopped at the Green Welly Stop? This is a very well-stocked shop in Tyndrum, which has just about everything hikers could need for walking the trail. This shop, along with Brodie’s mini-mart across the road, are the last shops for about 30 miles, until you reach Kinlochleven. If you need anything in the next few days, stock up here!

Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse

Mileage: 19 miles (Strava: 19.54 miles)

Where I Stayed: Kingshouse Bunkhouse

Kingshouse is very unique accommodation due to its location – it’s in the middle of nowhere! For that reason, it’s a very popular stopping point on the West Highland Way. I stayed in the bunkhouse, but they also have a very nice hotel. There is a (rather posh) hotel restaurant, and a pub that serves basic pub grub (which is where I ate). You will definitely want to stop for a pint here! I stayed in the bunkhouse, in a 6-bed dorm. While the bed was very comfortable, and there was a kitchen and laundry facilities, I was a bit disappointed considering the price I paid. Dead midges were everywhere, and the windows in the dorm rooms didn’t have screens, so you couldn’t open them (due to midges) – not ideal in summer. That being said, it was comfortable, and you’re paying for the remote location.

Highlights of the Day

This was, by far, my favorite day on the trail. The scenery is absolutely incredible! For the first several miles, you follow the railway line and the A82 – I remember driving this section several years ago and seeing hikers on the trail! After you reach Bridge of Orchy, you head up and are rewarded with amazing views of the Crianlarich hills, Loch Tulla, and Rannoch Moor. After the Inveronan Hotel, the trail follows a well-trodden track – the old military/drove road through to Glencoe. This is truly remote and wild – there are no roads for miles, no shelter, it is just the trail and other hikers. The descent into Glencoe, with the triangular peak of Buachaille Etive Beag welcoming you to the valley, is a moment I’ll never forget.

Views of Beinn Dorain

After leaving Tyndrum, the West Highland Way follows both the A82 road and the railway line. I saw a train go past and exchanged waves! The scenery here really is magical – it’s a taste of what’s to come, now that the trail is getting into the rugged and remote Scottish Highlands now. The pointy, conical peak that you walk towards for many miles is Beinn Dorain.

Bridge of Orchy

There’s really not much here – a train station, a hotel, and a pretty bridge over the river. But it’s a good place to stop and have a rest. The hotel has a tap with drinking water, and I’d recommend filling up. The riverside is a good spot for a picnic.

Large cairn and a lonely tree

Apologies that I can’t be more descriptive or specific here, but I couldn’t find any details. There is a huge cairn, with absolutely incredible views. This was one of my favorite views/scenery stops of the entire trail! You can see down to Loch Tulla, across to the Crianlarich hills, and, in the distance, the jagged mountain peaks of Glencoe. Not much further along, you’ll find a lonely tree.

Drove Road to Glencoe

After leaving the Inverornan Hotel (make sure to fill up with drinking water from their tap – there’s nothing else until Kingshouse), you make your way up to the Drove Road. This is a solid track for many miles through desolate wilderness. There’s no other way to say it – this is the middle of nowhere. There are no roads. There is no shelter. It is just you and the trail (and, most likely, other hikers). The scenery out to Rannoch Moor is stunning. This section of the West Highland Way was definitely one of my favorites. In bad weather, however, this will be bleak and grim – you’ll likely feel like you’re waging a losing battle against the elements. But it is the rugged Highland scenery, and that true escape from it all, that makes it worthwhile.

Descent into Glencoe

Maybe it was the good weather when I did this, or maybe it was the way the light was hitting the trail just right. Maybe it was because I was exhausted after hiking nearly 20 miles, and could see the pub where a burger and pint were waiting for me in the distance. Whatever combination it was, the descent into Glencoe was a moment I’ll never forget. The sun was streaming down over the mountain peaks, the purple heather was in bloom, and I was unbelievably happy.

Make sure to stop at Blackrock Cottage, as it makes for a good photo opportunity with Buachaille Etive Beag in the background.

Rest Day

Where I Stayed: Kingshouse Bunkhouse

Highlights of the Day: Glencoe

I chose to spend my rest day in Glencoe, as I wanted to explore more of the area after a quick visit in 2018. Ideally, I’d love to do a trip here to spend time hillwalking and bagging the peaks around the glen! But as it was a rest day, I reigned myself in.

Bus ride along the A82

I caught the bus from the A82, near Kingshouse, and took it to Glencoe. I remember this drive being incredible, but WOW! Glencoe is truly amazing, it is one of the best places in the Highlands, and even just sitting on a bus looking at the scenery was a wonderful experience. I highly recommend traveling through this part of Scotland.

Glencoe Village

Glencoe village is fairly small – considering how magnificent (and popular) the glen is. I stopped at a cute little café called Crafts and Things for lunch – there are a handful of other places to eat, a village shop, and the Glencoe Folk Museum. If I’d have had more time/energy, I would have found my way to some of the Harry Potter filming locations in the area – scenes with Hagrid’s hut were filmed here!

Glencoe Lochan

My real reason for visiting Glencoe was to hike around the beautiful loch. Glencoe Lochan is an unforgettable spot, surrounded by trees, with epic mountain views on all sides. There is a surfaced trail around the loch which is about 1 mile, but there are several other marked trails you can take through the woodland, too. Many posts recommended Glencoe Lochan as a good wild swimming spot, but I have to say I was let down. The water was murky and brown, impossible to tell how deep it was, with few options for easy access. It wasn’t very appealing for swimming, but for a short walk it was unbelievable!

Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

Mileage: 9 miles (Strava: 8.80 miles)

Where I Stayed: Blackwater Hostel – Glamping Pods (Mini Lodge)

There are several different accommodation options at Blackwater Hostel. They have bunkhouse accommodation, along with a range of glamping pods. As the hostel was booked, the cheapest option for me was a mini lodge. It was like a little hobbit hut, and I have to say it was surprisingly comfy! While it would have been a very tight fit for two people with bags (they have watertight storage outside the pod), it was perfect for me to rest and relax. There was a mini-fridge, and – the height of luxury – a TV!

Highlights of the Day

This was a relatively short day of hiking – the shortest of the trail for me! The West Highland Way cuts through Glencoe and climbs up the Devil’s Staircase before dropping down on the other side. It’s tough, and in bad weather it’ll be very exposed, but soon enough you’re arriving into Kinlochleven. With a few pubs, a café, a large co-op shop, an ice-climbing wall with on-site craft brewery, this feels like a breath of civilization after the remoteness of Kinghouse!

Views in Glencoe

I just loved being in Glencoe. Everything about it was amazing. The scenery is stunning, and I loved hiking along the track, surrounded by towering mountain peaks. The first several miles of the trail are parallel to the A82 road, with views straight to the Three Sisters ahead.

Devil’s Staircase

The lone cottage at Altnafeadh is made of Instagram dreams – it’s that classic Glencoe/Highlands/Scotland shot. You’ll continue getting a better, more dramatic view of it as you ascend the switchbacks that make up the Devil’s Staircase. I was nervous about this part – was it really as difficult as everyone made it out to be? The total ascent is about 250 meters, which – overall – really isn’t that bad. When you reach the top, you’ll be at an elevation of 548 meters – the highest point of the West Highland Way.

The Mamores

As you carry on the Devil’s Staircase and make the descent down into Kinlochleven, there are incredible mountain views ahead of you. These are the Mamores, and if you’re lucky you might even see Ben Nevis peeking out, too. I loved the contrast between the mountains of Glencoe and the Mamores ahead – they’re all mountains, but so different.

Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William

Mileage: 15 miles (Strava: 15.82 miles)

Where I Stayed: Fort William Backpackers

This is a classic backpacker hostel in Fort William, close to the train station. I was in a 10-bed dorm room, which felt a bit crammed with everyone’s luggage. But my bed was comfy, there’s a kitchen and large dining room, a garden with a great view over the town, and a cozy common room with a wood-burning fire. Just a note, it’s at the top of a hill – so those weary legs will need to hike up to the top before you can collapse.

Highlights of the Day

It’s a steady climb up out of Kinlochleven – your calves will be working here! The trail goes through a remote and exposed pass before heading through forest plantations. You’ll skirt around Glen Nevis – hopefully with views of the Ben itself! – before hiking on the road the last mile into Fort William. There are two end points to the walk: the official (old) end of the West Highland Way, which is a sign next to a roundabout, and the new end point in Gordon Square in the center of Fort William. You should visit both – otherwise, will it really count?!

Lairigmor pass

The scenery in this mountain pass is beautiful, but it does feel quite desolate. There’s no shelter here, and it’s very exposed – the day I hiked here, it was so windy I nearly lost my hat! Once you’re through this pass, you’ll hopefully be catching glimpses of Ben Nevis (the highest mountain in the UK) throughout the rest of the day.

Glen Nevis

I hiked Ben Nevis in 2018, and have no desire to do so again (although the CMD Arête route on a perfect weather day with a group does sound rather appealing). But I did really enjoy hiking through the conifer plantations and seeing views of Ben Nevis as I hiked. I could even make out a few landmarks that I remember from my hike up the Ben!

Old End of the West Highland Way

The original end point of the West Highland Way is a large marker next to a roundabout. This will bring jubilation, tears, and likely congratulations to and from anyone around you. It’s a bit anticlimactic now, however, as nearly everyone will trek into the town to the new end point.

New End of the West Highland Way

The new end point of the West Highland Way is at a statue of a man holding one foot (simply called Man with Sore Feet). The statue is in Gordon Square in Fort William, roughly 1 mile further from the old end point. This is it: this is finally the end. I laughed, I cried, I took about a thousand pictures and videos to commemorate. It was the perfect way to finish off the adventure of a lifetime.

Planning Your West Highland Way Trip

Hiking the West Highland Way is a bucket-list experience, but one that requires a lot of advance planning. If you’re visiting the UK, I recommend flying into Glasgow. I book my flights through Skyscanner. For this trip to Scotland, I took the train and I loved the rail journey on the West Highland Line from Fort William back to Glasgow. I always use Trainline to book trains.
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I’ll be writing a full packing guide for the West Highland Way soon, but you’ll need sturdy, waterproof hiking boots. I love my Scarpa mistral boots! A waterproof rain jacket and rain pants are also essential. Hiking poles will be a lifesaver on this trek! The Trailblazers West Highland Way guidebook is great for learning more about the trail and what to expect each day. Although the trail is very well-signposted, I used the OS Maps app every day on this trek. You’ll want to make sure you’ve planned out how/where you’ll get food during the middle section of the hike, where there are fewer options.

The West Highland Way was a real challenge, but one of the most rewarding trips I’ve done in my life. The simplicity of only needing to get myself from Point A to Point B each day is one of the things that attracts me to multi-day trails. This is a popular hike – you definitely won’t be alone – but people do it for a reason. The scenery is stunning, the landscapes are truly gorgeous, and it cuts through unique parts of the Scottish Highlands. I am so glad I chose to do this hike, and I am so damn proud of myself for completing it! I hope this post helps plan a 7-day itinerary for the West Highland Way.

Have you hiked the West Highland Way? What were your favorite parts?

You might also like my posts:

How Much Does it Cost to Hike the West Highland Way in Scotland?

West Highland Way Packing List: What to Pack for Hiking the West Highland Way

A Travel Guide for Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, Scotland

A 6-Day Itinerary for Hiking Hadrian’s Wall

How to Spend 48 Hours in Glasgow

12 Tips for Planning Your Scottish Highlands Road Trip

Scottish Highlands Road Trip: What to See in Glencoe

Cairngorms National Park Travel Guide: What to See and Do

All of my Scotland posts and hiking posts!

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