The Cairngorms National Park – what a place! My trip here over the extended Easter break was a wonderful introduction to this incredible part of Scotland. This is one of two national parks in Scotland and home to the Cairngorm mountain range – including Ben Macdui, the second-highest mountain in the UK (after Ben Nevis). For an epic outdoor adventure, here is my travel guide to the Cairngorms!
How to Get to the Cairngorms
The Cairngorms National Park is located in the northeast part of Scotland, east of Inverness, west of Aberdeen, and north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. The easiest way to get here is by car. But the Highland Main Line (between Glasgow/Edinburgh and Inverness) does run through part of the Cairngorms, including Aviemore. It’ll take about 8 hours by train from London.
Driving Around the Cairngorms
The Cairngorms is best explored with your own set of wheels – you’ll have so much more freedom to get around to more remote places, especially if you’re planning on doing lots of hikes. The main roads around the Cairngorms, such as the A9, A95, and A93 are generally quite good – one lane each way. Many other main roads are also one lane each way. If you venture off the main roads and into quieter and more remote sections of the park, expect single-track roads with passing places.
What to See and Do in the Cairngorms
I had 6 days in the Cairngorms and it was barely enough time. There are so many great hikes, but they take up a lot of time – a full day, or at the very least half a day. I’ve divided this post into several sections: hikes, outdoor scenery and activities, lochs, castles, towns, and distilleries. Here are my top recommendations for what to see and do in the Cairngorms!
Table of Contents
Hikes in the Cairngorms
Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm
Possibly one of the most popular hikes in the national park – the trek up Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm via the Cairngorm Ski Center is a must for fell walkers, Munro baggers, and mountain lovers. The walk is approximately 11 miles, and will take 6-8 hours. It brings you to the summit of Ben Macdui – this is the second-highest mountain in the UK, which makes this a fairly popular route. Unfortunately, it’s one I had to skip due to weather and snow conditions. Keep in mind that the mountains on the Cairngorm plateau can have snow into July. Read the walk route on WalkHighlands here.
Sgor Gaoith
Have you ever met a group of retired Scottish men in a bothy, they invite you on their hike the next day, and you say yes and bag two Munros on a 13-mile hike?! Well, I have. Sgor Gaoith is a good choice for a mountain hike – especially if you tack on Mullach Clach a’Bhlair. We did the route from the bothy at Glen Feshie, and returned to the two parking areas after 7 hours of hiking.
This route was definitely one I wouldn’t have been able to do if I was on my own – thankfully, the guys I was with were experts, and navigated us safely to the summit. It was also the hardest hike I’ve ever done: carrying all my camping gear (I had planned on dumping most of my stuff at my car before backtracking to go up a different route), trudging through deep snow and bog across pathless terrain… it was hard. But it was worth it.
I was the youngest person by nearly 30 years, and I was the slowest coming down the mountain!! I don’t know if I’ll ever run into them again, but they were such a great group – I had the best time. Enjoy our summit selfie at the top!
You can read about an alternate route up Sgor Gaoith, from Glen Feshie, on the WalkHighlands website. This route is 8.75 miles and will take about 6-7 hours.
Cairnwell Munros
Looking to bag a few Munros without a huge elevation gain? There are three Munros with relatively easy access from the Glenshee Ski Center: Carn Aosda, Carn a’ Gheoidh, and the Cairnwell. Because you start from so high up, there’s less than 600 meters of elevation gain. The route is about 8 miles and will take 5-6 hours. I had to skip this one due to weather (again), but I absolutely want to go back and tick these off!
Meall a’ Bhuachaille (from Glenmore)
This was my favorite hike in the Cairngorms! Starting from the layby at the end of the road (see the Google Maps location here), this route first takes you past An Lochan Uaine, the Green Loch (or the Fairy Loch). After reaching Ryvoan Pass (and Ryvoan Bothy!), it then steeply climbs up to the summit of Meall a’ Bhuachaille. The views here are simply spectacular.
While it’s not a Munro, and it’s less than 600 meters of elevation gain, this is one walk in the Cairngorms you simply can’t miss. Read the walk route on WalkHighlands here.
Glen Feshie
My main motive for exploring Glen Feshie was to get to the bothy, where I planned on staying the night (more on bothies below!). But this is a wonderful standalone walk in its own right, taking you through the quiet and remote area of Glen Feshie. The trail is relatively easy to follow, although there are several stream crossings/fords that may prove difficult. I managed all of them, but one big one had just a large fallen tree as a bridge, and I had to shimmy across on my hands and knees. My route was 4.19 miles one-way, and took me just over 1.5 hours to get to the bothy (according to Strava). You can extend the walk to get a great view over the glen, and then retrace your steps for an 11.75-mile hike.
Outdoor Scenery and Activities in the Cairngorms
Queen’s View
While it’s not technically within the Cairngorms National Park boundary, this is one stop you’ll want to add just south of the park. Queen’s View is a scenic viewpoint over Loch Tummel, near Pitlochry. It’s said to be named after Queen Victoria, after she visited the area in 1866. This is a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy the scenery. The car park here is run by Forestry and Land Scotland and has a charge.
Falls of Bruar
A short hike through the woods brings you to two sets of the magnificent Falls of Bruar waterfall. It took me just 10 minutes from leaving the large car park, outside House of Bruar, to get to the low falls viewpoint. I definitely recommend you carry on the trail to see the upper falls, and then loop back around. It took me about 45 minutes to do the entire loop, including stops for photos.
Snow Roads
The Snow Roads is a scenic route, approximately 90 miles, from Grantown-on-Spey to Blairgowrie, on the eastern side of Cairngorms National Park. It’s the highest public road in Britain, and one you can’t miss – the scenery is just phenomenal! The roads are in good condition, and one lane each way. There are three art installations along this route: Still, the Watchers and A Moment in Time, and Connecting Contours. The Watchers and A Moment in Time were my favorite – the views over Corgarff are simply epic. Take your time driving along this section, to really soak up the scenery as it deserves.
Cairnwell Pass (Devil’s Elbow)
At the southern end of the Snow Roads, south of Braemar and north of Spittal of Glenshee, you’ll find Cairnwell Pass and the Devil’s Elbow. Cairnwell Pass is 670 meters above sea level at its highest point. It’s the highest road in the UK, and home to the Glenshee Ski Center. The Devil’s Elbow is a double hairpin bend in the road – there’s a layby here with a viewpoint, so you can stop and take some photos. And trust me, you’ll want to!
Reindeer Center (Glenmore)
Ever wanted to see a herd of reindeer in the UK? The Cairngorms is home to Britain’s only free-ranging herd of reindeer. The Reindeer Center in Glenmore runs regular walks to go and see the reindeer in their natural habitat. They also have the Paddocks and an exhibition if you aren’t able to join the guided hike (enjoy my pic of a few through the fence!). I wish I had had more time to do this!
Linn of Dee
This is a pretty area for a short walk, just under 2 miles, to see the waterfalls at the Linn of Dee. The River Dee goes through a narrow gorge to form the waterfall – the river is also a good place to see salmon, if you’re visiting at the right time! Follow the blue markers for this loop. There is a large National Trust car park; the walk took me 45 minutes altogether.
Lochs in the Cairngorms
Loch Morlich
This has to be one of my favorite lochs in the Cairngorms – it’s located in Glenmore, with stunning views of the Cairngorm plateau in the not-too-far distance. There’s a huge sandy beach, great for swimming (if it’s not too chilly for you!), and there’s a big watersports center. You can rent kayaks, paddleboards, canoes, or sign up for lessons if you’re a beginner. The car parks aren’t free, but there’s a lot of laybys around the loch which are free to park in. Don’t miss Loch Morlich if you’re in the Cairngorms!
An Lochan Uaine
Also known as the Green Loch or the Fairy Loch, An Lochan Uaine is outside of Glenmore, about a 25-minute walk from where you can park. While I loved my hike out to Ryvoan Pass and Meall a’ Bhuachaille, you can also just visit the loch and head back. The turquoise green water is surrounded by steep mountain slopes on one side, making it very picturesque.
Loch an Eilein
This small loch is in Rothiemurchus Forest, and is best known for the island in the middle which has the remains of a ruined castle on it. It’s a very picturesque spot! There is an easy 3-mile loop around the loch that you can do. Or bring a kayak or paddleboard and get out on the water to see the castle ruins! There is an admission charge for Rothiemurchus, which costs £1.50/adult.
Loch Muick
Another one of my favorite lochs in the Cairngorms: Loch Muick! This stunning loch is framed by the steep mountain peaks around it – sometimes with big waterfalls after heavy rain. The car park (£5 for all-day parking) is accessible by a 6-mile, single-track road through Glen Muick. It has regular passing places – and you will feel like you’re heading into a more remote region.
The circuit of the loch is easy to navigate – it’s about 7.75 miles. I actually split this walk up as I was staying at the bothy here! I definitely recommend this if you’re into staying in a bothy. Overall, the circuit took me 2 hours and 40 minutes.
Loch Muick was one of my best wildlife spots on my trip to the Cairngorms – I saw a herd of red deer right on the path!! This guy was looking right at me.
Loch Vaa
This pretty loch is popular for walking, fishing, and swimming – it’s just off the A95 road. Park at Laggantrygown Cemetery, where there is a small (free) car park. I loved the picturesque wooden boathouse, with a distinct red roof. This is a great spot for a short walk or just a picnic by the water.
Loch Garten
Loch Garten is a pretty loch, but it is best known for its osprey center. This is part of an RSPB nature reserve, and you can see the osprey nest live if you visit from April to August. The car park is free, and there are several marked trails around the loch. If you want to visit the RSPB center and see the ospreys, there is an admission charge.
Muir of Dinnet and Loch Kinord
This is a low-level walk around the Muir of Dinnet and Loch Kinord – but it was quiet and peaceful, which I really enjoyed! The loop is about 4 miles and took me 1.5 hours. Don’t miss the Kinord Cross, a Pictish carved stone that’s over 1000 years old!
Castles in the Cairngorms
Balmoral Castle
Of course, no visit to the Cairngorms National Park would be complete without checking out the Queen’s crib at Balmoral Castle! Balmoral is only open to the public from the spring until the beginning of August, when it closes for the Queen on her summer holidays. I suggest paying for the audio guide so you can learn more about the castle, its history, and different sites on the estate here. Otherwise, as far as I’m aware, you can stroll around the grounds for free.
There is a very large car park to access the castle, which costs £5 for all-day parking. If you’re stopping here, I recommend a visit to the Highlander’s Bakehouse for food or sweet treats – just down the road.
Don’t miss the hike out to see the Prince Albert Cairn, a huge pyramid dedicated to Queen Victoria’s husband Prince Albert. You can do a walk to see all of the cairns, or you can just hike up to Albert’s Cairn. Keep in mind this is a bit of a trek from the car park, and up very steep paths (that can be very muddy). It took me 40 minutes from leaving the car to reach Prince Albert’s Cairn.
Corgarff Castle
This impressive castle is in the northeastern part of the Cairngorms. It’s easy to spot as you drive the Snow Roads due to its star-shaped outer wall surrounding the keep. Corgarff Castle is operated by Historic Scotland, and access is by guided tour only – make sure to book in advance. Unfortunately, the castle was closed when I was in the Cairngorms so I missed out!
Braemar Castle
Another castle that was unfortunately closed (for renovation) when I visited! I didn’t get a chance to see Braemar Castle, as it was covered in scaffolding. It dates to the 17th century, and has been used as a hunting lodge, garrison, fortress, and family home over the years. The restoration project is due to be finished in 2023.
Blair Castle
In the very south of the Cairngorms, Blair Castle is an impressive castle and a must-see when in the area. The interior is beautiful – the castle dates back 750 years, but different parts have been changed and feature different styles. While you’re here, make sure to stroll around the gardens – and try to see the herd of deer that call this place their home!
Towns in the Cairngorms
Pitlochry
Technically Pitlochry is just outside the boundary of the national park. But it’s a nice town and a big hub for connections in the region – there’s a train station here, so it’s convenient to get to. Visit Blair Athol Distillery and Pitlochry Dam while you’re here, plus there’s a couple of local museums, too.
Aviemore
Aviemore is the major hub on the western side of the Cairngorms – the A9 road runs through it, and there’s a train station as well as loads of shops, restaurants, and accommodation. If you’re visiting the Cairngorms and want to stay in a town instead of somewhere more remote, Aviemore is the place for you. And if you need any outdoor equipment or to stock up on food, there are plenty of places. I loved seeing Aviemore Stone Circle, tucked away off the main street in a residential area!
Carrbridge
This is a pretty village, just off the A9 and A95 in the northwest part of the Cairngorms. Carrbridge is famous for its old Packhorse Bridge, over the River Dulnain. It’s a picturesque, arched stone bridge and definitely worth a photo stop. There are quite a few places to stay, as well as a couple of cafes and places to eat.
Ballater
In the heart of Royal Deeside with the River Dee running just outside town, Ballater is a cute village to visit. There are lots of walks you can do right from the village, or else it’s a nice place to wander around. Stop at Shorty’s for an ice cream, you won’t regret it!
Braemar
Braemar is another cute town to visit in the Cairngorms – it’s especially well-known for hosting the Braemar Highland Games. You’ll find Braemar Castle just outside of town, and there are lots of walks you can do around here, too. There are a few options for food here; I had lunch at the Bothy Braemer and it was great!
Cock Bridge
There’s not really much in Cock Bridge. As in, there’s nothing in Cock Bridge. But it’s a hilarious name for a village and so I’m putting it on this list because it’s my blog and I can do what I want. It’s on the Snow Roads, in the eastern part of the national park. Make sure to take some pics with the sign!
Nethy Bridge
This is a small village just off the A95, in the northern part of the Cairngorms. There’s a small exhibit in the visitor center, and one or two shops and places for food. It’s a quiet place, but that’s part of its appeal. Make sure to stop at Castle Roy, just outside the village, to see the old castle ruins. It seems there’s usually a Highland coo (cow) in the field next to it, too!
Distilleries in the Cairngorms
There are some really excellent distilleries in the Cairngorms if you’re interested in a dram. Dalwhinnie Distillery, Glenlivet Distillery, and Royal Lochnagar all offer tours if you want to learn about how their whisky is made – and of course, taste a few samples at the end! Tomintoul Distillery doesn’t have a visitor center, but visits can be arranged if you contact them in advance. Beer fans shouldn’t worry – head to Cairngorms Brewery, in Aviemore, to check out the craft beer scene here.
If you’re wanting to extend your visit (and you’re not driving), why not hit the Malt Whisky Trail? This is a route through Speyside, with 9 stops along with way, which is signposted on the road. If you’re really wanting a whisky experience, this is a great one!
Bothies in the Cairngorms
This trip was what truly got me hooked on bothies. Before the Cairngorms, I’d only stayed in one – the bothy at Camasunary Bay on the Isle of Skye. A bothy is a basic shelter, available to anyone and free to use, in remote and mountainous regions in Scotland, Northern England, and Wales. Apparently there are some in Ulster, too! I stayed at several bothies in the Cairngorms and wanted to mention them – read my ultimate bothy guide here.
Glen Feshie (Ruigh Aiteachain)
This bothy can barely be called a bothy – it’s really more like a bunkhouse, it’s so nice. The bothy at Glen Feshie, called Ruigh Aiteachain, is a large one with room for about 20 people. It was a full house when I stayed, with most sleeping platforms/spaces taken! The caretaker is a very nice, sweet man, who puts a lot of energy into keeping the bothy in tiptop shape. He has a gas stove set up, and chances are he’ll welcome you with a cup of tea (or coffee, if you prefer).
The upstairs area is kind of divided in two, and the downstairs has a separate room from the main kitchen/dining area. There are squat toilets that, to say they’re squat toilets, are quite nice – plus drinking water from the stream nearby. This is where I met the group of older guys who let me tag along on their route up Sgor Gaoith, bothies are a great place to meet other hikers!
Glas Allt Shiel (Loch Muick)
Located on Loch Muick, Glas Allt Shiel is technically on the Queen’s Estate (cheers, Liz!). This bothy is just one of the outbuildings of the old house here – it can be a bit tricky to find, I basically just wandered around trying the handles of doors until one opened. There is a bunk bed on the ground floor, and plenty of room in the loft for others. There’s a basic squat toilet in an outhouse.
Gelder Shiel
The only time I’ve ever had a bothy all to myself! Gelder Shiel is located outside of Balmoral, and is also on the Queen’s Estate. There are about 5 bunk beds (so space for 10 people, easily) here, and a basic squat toilet out back. It was a cozy night, but definitely an interesting one – I don’t know if I’ve ever been anywhere so remote by myself!
Ryvoan
While I didn’t sleep here, I passed Ryvoan bothy on my walk up Meall a’ Bhuachaille. It’s a small bothy, with room for 4 people and maybe a few more if you squeeze. It’s a beautiful location, at Ryvoan Pass with great views over the rugged moorlands.
Another bothy I was looking to stay at was Callater, but I ended up heading home a bit earlier instead. You can find out more information about bothies in the Cairngorms on the MBA website.
Planning Your Trip
The Cairngorms National Park is a huge region to explore – you’ll definitely want several days, if not a full week, here. This is especially true if you’re hoping to do some hiking and bag a few Munros – or if you’re planning activities that are weather dependent. While having a car will give you more freedom, you can get around by train – especially if you’re basing yourself somewhere like Aviemore. I always book my train tickets online in advance on Trainline. The closest airports are Aberdeen and Inverness – I book flights through Skyscanner. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
I wild camped and stayed in bothies for my trip to the Cairngorms – but there are plenty of accommodation options here, too. Aviemore is a popular place to base yourself, especially if you’re coming by train. Plus you’ll have lots of choice for food here! You can search for hostels here, or for hotels/B&Bs here.
Looking for a tour through the Cairngorms? Check out these tours below!
The Cairngorms is a playground for anyone who loves the outdoors – there’s no shortage of hikes, watersports, or activities here. But there’s plenty of cute towns, castles, distilleries, and other places to visit, too. This part of Scotland is rugged and remote, and at times on my trip I felt like I was truly immersed in the wild. I hope this travel guide helps planning a trip to the Cairngorms!
Have you ever been to the Cairngorms? If not, is it on your bucket list?
You might like my other posts:
A Travel Guide for Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, Scotland
The Isle of Arran: A Guide for Visiting Scotland in Miniature
What to See on the Isle of Mull and Iona in Scotland
A 7-Day Itinerary for Scotland’s North Coast 500 Road Trip
A Bothy Guide for Beginners: What to Know About Bothies in Britain
What to See and Do in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland
The Best Wild Camping Spots on the Isle of Skye, Scotland
Alternative Isle of Skye: 4 Ways to Avoid the Crowds
All of my Scotland posts!
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