My trip to Orkney was one of the best of my life. There is so much to see and do on this cluster of islands, just off the north coast of Scotland. I had 8 days to explore Orkney, and packed in a lot into this short amount of time! While I loved my adventures around the Mainland, the Barrier Islands, South Ronaldsay, Hoy, Papa Westray, and Westray, there was still so much I missed out on – Rousay, Sanday, and Stronsay, to name a few.

I had a day each on Hoy, Papa Westray, and Westray, with the rest of my time split over the Mainland and exploring the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay. Having your own car will definitely open up a lot of possibilities, and it’ll mean you can see so much more of Orkney – so I do recommend driving. This trip itinerary would have looked very different if I’d been relying on public transportation to get around.

If you’re after the ultimate guide to what to see in Orkney, this is the post for you! Here’s an 8-day itinerary to see the best of the Orkney Islands.

What to See on West Mainland, Orkney

Stromness

For many people (myself included), Stromness is the first taste of Orkney – the Northlink ferry from Scrabster arrives here. You can learn about local history at Stromness Museum. I really liked the exhibits on maritime history during the World Wars, and the exhibit on John Rae, who was an Arctic explorer from Orkney. It costs £5 for adults.

Make sure to head up Brinkie’s Brae for incredible views. This hill isn’t very high (94 meters), but on a clear day it’s phenomenal. There is a signpost from the road to help you find the path – it does go right next to someone’s garden – and took me about 30 minutes, including lots of time taking photos at the summit.

Sands of Evie

This might be one of my favorite beaches on Orkney. Just outside of the village of Evie, you’ll find this expansive stretch of sand with views out to Rousay. I loved going for a quick swim here! This is a great place to catch the sunset, too.

Broch of Gurness

This is an ancient historic site, perched right on the coast. The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age broch village, and one of the most impressive. You can walk around the main broch itself, and through the remains of the broch village – including a toilet. It dates back over 2,000 years and is run by Historic Scotland, so there is an admission charge.

Kirbuster Museum

Wondering what life was like in rural Orkney in the 19th and early 20th centuries? Kirbuster Museum showcases farm life in Orkeny – the farmhouse was occupied until the 1960s, and has a central hearth with a peat fire, a stone neuk bed, and very pretty gardens. Admission is free.

Twatt

Of course this post wouldn’t be complete without paying homage to Twatt now, would it?! One of the main reasons I came to Orkney was to take a picture with this sign. And yes, I pre-planned my Twatt content and brought pictures of my ex-husband to have a photoshoot with here, ha! There is a Twatt sign with an arrow in Abune-the-Hill, which is a must. There is no welcome sign in Twatt itself, but I highly recommend you stop at Twatt Church, too.

Orkney Brewery

A lot of Scotland is focused on whisky when it comes to producing alcohol – but there’s plenty of great beer, too. Head to Orkney Brewery and you can tour their brewery – samples included – or just stop by their Tasting Hall for lunch. Beers in the shop are very reasonably priced (£2.30 each!), and my favorite so far is the Puffin beer.

Brough of Birsay

One of the most unique spots to visit on Orkney is the Brough of Birsay. This is an island just off the mainland, and is connected to the shore by a tidal causeway. It’s safe to cross about 2 hours either side of low tide, and make sure to check the tide times in advance so you don’t get stuck. There are remains of a Pictish settlement and church/monastery to explore, and a lighthouse. Head past the lighthouse and you might be lucky enough to spot some puffins!

Earl’s Palace, Birsay

Birsay is a very small village, but make sure to stop and see the remains of the Earl’s Palace. While it’s mainly in ruins now, this was once a fine castle and home to the Earl of Orkney (the half-brother of Mary Queen of Scots). It’s free to visit.

Skara Brae

Skara Brae is one of the most famous historic sites on Orkney. It’s a top Orkney attraction and part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. This ancient settlement is the most complete Neolithic village in Europe, and was occupied from 3180 to 2500 BCE. You can walk around the individual houses, and even see some of the remaining furniture. The visitor center has an excellent exhibit on what life was like for the people living here, and how it was discovered after a storm in 1850.

This can be a busy site as it sees a lot of cruise ship/coach visitors. Visiting in the morning or late afternoon will be the quietest times. Skara Brae is run by Historic Scotland and there is an admission charge. Admission also covers entry to Skaill House, a 17th-century mansion. The house is set up to show how it functioned as a family home in the 1950s, with lots of information on the people who owned the property and lived here.

Skaill Beach

This is another incredible beach on Mainland Orkney. White sand stretches in a curved arc all around the bay. You’ll get a great view from Skara Brae, but it’s also a great place to go for a walk or even swim. There’s a car park and toilet here.

Marwick Head and Kitchener Memorial

There’s a great coastal walk around Marwick Head – approximately 2.5 miles and it took me about 1 hour and 15 minutes in total. You can start at either the RSPB Marwick Head car park, or the Kitchener Memorial car park. As Marwick Head is an RSPB reserve, bring your binoculars – you’ll hopefully see lots of seabirds here!

The Kitchener Memorial rises from the rocky cliffs, and can be seen from many different spots on the western coast. In 1916, Lord Kitchener’s ship (the HMS Hampshire) was struck by a mine laid by a German submarine, and the ship sank with a loss of 700 lives. Only 12 people survived. Lord Kitchener was very well-known as the poster boy (literally) for army recruitment during World War I in Britain. The memorial was built in 1926, and in 2016 an additional wall, commemorating all the men who were killed, was built.

Yesnaby Cliffs

Yesnaby is another spot on the coast of West Mainland of Orkney that can’t be missed. The rocky cliffs lead you south from the car park to Yesnaby Castle, a sea stack with a notable hole in the base. It took me about 50 minutes from the car park to the best part of the coast around the sea stack – but you can certainly carry on the coast even longer here.

Loch of Harray

The Loch of Harray is the largest loch on Mainland Orkney, and is a very peaceful place in comparison to the busier sites along the coast. There’s a car park and picnic area with a viewpoint, and there’s a short walk on boardwalks to see more of the marshy area that juts out into the loch.

Ring of Brodgar Stone Circle

This is one of the most unbelievable place to visit on Orkney: the Ring of Brodgar is a massive stone circle, dating back to 2500 BCE and with 36 stones left standing today. This is, quite simply, one of the most magnificent sites I’ve ever visited. The stone circle is 104 meters in diameter, and is one of the most phenomenal stone circles in Britain. It’s free to visit, and open 24/7 – I recommend coming in the early morning or late evening. I had the entire place to myself when I showed up at 8:30am! In World War II, the Ring of Bordgar was used for tank training – the tanks practiced maneuvering around the ancient stones.

The Ring of Brodgar is part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. If you’re interested in seeing more archaeology up close, check out the Ness of Brodgar. This site has been undergoing excavation since 2004, and members of the public can sometimes visit and see the excavations on site.

Standing Stones of Stenness

This superb stone circle only has 4 stones left standing today, but there was originally comprised of 12 stones. It was built about 5,400 years ago, and is also part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. In 1814, the farmer leasing the land started to pull the stones down. The locals were so mad that they attempted to burn his house down – twice. Like the Ring of Brodgar, the site is run by Historic Scotland but free to visit, any time of day. This is one place you can’t miss on Orkney.

Just a few minutes’ walk away is the Barnhouse Settlement, where you can see the remains of a village overlooking the Loch of Stenness.

Unstan Chambered Carin

A short drive from the Standing Stones of Stennes, you’ll find Unstan Chambered Cairn. Crawl into the gateway and you’ll find yourself in a rounded Neolithic tomb – there are modern windows built into the mound, so its light inside. Pottery is the most important artifacts that were found here. l To get here, follow what seems to be someone’s driveway through to a small car park. There is room for 2-3 cars.

Maeshowe

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit Maeshowe on my Orkney trip. Entrance is by guided tour only, and as they had only recently reopened for the season, it was completely booked up for several weeks in advance. This is one of the finest chambered cairns in Europe, and dates back to about 2800 BCE. It’s also part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. Don’t make my mistake, make sure you book well in advance! It’s run by Historic Scotland, and there is a charge for the tour/admission.

Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn

Grab the flashlight from the box and crawl on your hands and knees to enter Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn. This Neolithic tomb is 5,000 years old – when it was excavated in 1901, they found the skulls of 24 dogs buried here. It’s a steep climb up from the parking area, but the views over this part of Mainland Orkney are wonderful.

Wideford Hill and Chambered Cairn

Just outside of Kirkwall, Wideford Hill dominates the landscape. At 225 meters high, you’ll have an excellent view over the city from here – a trig point marks the summit. I found it impossible to find any information on parking here, so please note that there are two areas where you can park your car. At the top of Wideford Hill, there is room for about 2 cars (the spot is listed as Wideford Hill Scenic View on GoogleMaps). Just below that, there is space for 2 or maybe 3 cars at the bend in the road. There is a small Historic Scotland sign here that says this is where you should park to visit the cairn.

Wideford Hill Chambered Cairn is on the west side of the hill – there’s a well-trodden, easy-to-follow path from where you park to get to the cairn. But it will take at least 10-15 minutes to get there, and I recommend having sturdy footwear. It’s definitely worth the trek though: you enter this cairn through a hatch in the roof of the mound!! There is a flashlight in a box, you pull open the hatch, and descend into the cairn by a short ladder. It’s a tight squeeze, so I recommend leaving any backpacks outside. Look out for the Neolithic graffiti while you’re in the cairn.

Waulkmill Bay

Is this the best beach on Mainland Orkney? My jaw dropped when I first saw Waulkmill Bay – a huge expanse of perfect sand. It’s simply spectacular, and I loved going for a swim here! There is parking off the side of the road by the toilet, where you’ll follow the steep steps down to the sand. I could have spent the entire day here, alternating between swimming in the crystal-clear sea and lounging on the sand.

Orphir

There are two places of interest to visit in Orphir. The first is the Orkneyinga Saga Center, which has an exhibition about the Norse Earls of Orkney. A narrative of the political history of Orkney (and Shetland), the Orkneyinga Saga goes into great details about various events in the Viking era. The center is free to visit and there is a film you can watch, although it is a few decades old.

The other main attraction to visit in Orphir is the ruins of the Earl’s Bu and Church. This was the setting for one of the events in the Orkneyinga Saga, and is one of only two round churches in all of Scotland. The ruins are right behind the exhibition center and free to visit.

What to See in Kirkwall, Orkney

As the main town in the Orkney Islands, I think Kirkwall deserves its own section!

St. Magnus Cathedral

A beautiful red brick building in the center of Kirkwall, St. Magnus Cathedral can’t be missed. It was founded in 1137, and was named after Saint Magnus, who was killed on Orkney in the early 1100s and became a martyr. The cathedral is free to visit – the interior is just beautiful.

Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces

The Bishop’s Palace and the Earl’s Palace are right across the street from one another – both are run by Historic Scotland (who charge an admission fee). The Bishop’s Palace was built in the early 1100s, and today it’s really only the ground floor that remains. The Earl’s Palace is much larger – it was built in the early 1600s by the Earl of Orkney. There’s more to see here, such as large fireplaces, the earl’s chambers, and a beautiful large staircase.

Orkney Museum

I was completely blown away by the Orkney Museum – there is SO much to see here! I’d recommend setting aside at least 1 hour for your visit. The museum covers the history of Orkney from the prehistoric age, all the way up to the 20th century! It’s free to visit, but well worth a donation at the end.

Orkney Library

I visited Orkney Library mainly because I follow them on Twitter, and they’re hilarious. I had to see the balls for myself. No regrets.

Judith Glue Shop

This is an excellent shop with all sorts of local gifts, clothing, knitwear, and souvenirs you can pick up. I stocked up on some puffin items – there’s also a good selection of Twatt merchandise. They also have a café at the back of the shop and lots of local produce!

Archive Coffee

This café looks tiny from the outside, but it’s a huge space inside! An excellent choice for breakfast, brunch, or just coffee, Archive is my top pick in Kirkwall. Get the peanut butter cup pancakes, trust me.

Helgi’s

If you’re after a hearty meal in a classic pub setting, head to Helgi’s by the waterfront. The food here is delicious, the service was quick and the staff were really friendly. If you’re looking for an evening meal, I recommend booking in advance.

Orkney Distillery

Right on Kirkwall harbor, you’ll find the Orkney Distillery and visitor center – the home of Orkney gin. They offer distillery tours as well as gin-making classes. But the café/bar at the front is also a great choice for a drink, or whiling away a rainy afternoon.

Highland Park Distillery

This is the northernmost Scotch whisky distillery in the country – so it’s not one to miss. It’s located just outside of Kirkwall (about a mile), and access is only available if you’ve booked one of their guided tours. They have a well-stocked whisky shop on Albert Street in the center of Kirkwall.

Scapa Distillery

Scapa Distillery is home to (possibly) my favorite whisky in the entire world: the Scapa Skiren. Of course I had to visit and buy a bottle at the distillery itself! They do offer distillery tours/tastings (book in advance), and I’d recommend checking the shop opening times before you visit. It’s about 2 miles from the center of Kirkwall. While you’re there, stop by Scapa Beach! This beach looks out to Scapa Bay – check locally for any exciting recent whale or dolphin spottings.

What to See on East Mainland, Orkney

Inganess Beach/Sands of Wideford

This is a quiet beach, just outside of Kirkwall and down the road from Kirkwall Airport. The view is dominated by the rusting wreck of Juniata, a World War II ship. There’s a small car park here, and a few quiet walks you can do nearby.

Rerwick Head

The road to get here isn’t the best, but Rerwick Head is a quiet place with a fascinating history. You’ll probably have it all to yourself! There’s a small car park, from where you can head on a short walk around the old WWII gun battery. You can see what’s left of the camps and barracks, lookout posts, and the gun batteries themselves. Don’t enter any of the buildings though, as they might not be safe.

Dingieshowe

This is a spectacular beach, connecting Mainland Orkney with Deerness. There is a car park here with toilets, and you can then head over the dunes and onto the sand for spectacular views across the isthmus. There are signs up about erosion here, so please stick to the paths and I’d discourage camping here.

Deerness Distillery

This small gin and vodka distillery is on the Deerness peninsula in Orkney. The distillery can offer short tours/samples (no charge!!) when they’re open. If you can’t visit in person, they do have an online shop!

Newark Bay

This is a beautiful, quiet stretch of sand, with great views out over to other islands. You can do a short coastal walk along the Point of Ayre here – I also saw a few windsurfers in the evening when I went!

Mull Head

One of the best places to see on the Deerness Peninsula is Mull Head. I loved hiking here – it’s an RSPB reserve, so I saw quite a few seabirds including puffins! The walk starts off in the car park by the visitor center, and passes the Gloup, a dramatic collapsed sea cave. It then heads along the coast to the Broch of Deerness – you can usually explore the ruins yourself, but unfortunately the path was closed due to a landslide when I was there.

Carry on around Mull Head and down the western coast, where you’ll find the Covenanter’s Memorial. In 1679, a ship of Covenanters, who were prisoners being transported, was wrecked off the coast. Over 200 of them died as they were trapped inside and unable to escape the sinking ship. There is a small car park close to the memorial, but the hike takes you back to Mull Head.

The hike is about 6.5 miles and took me around 2.5 hours.

St. Mary’s Totem Pole

At the very tip of Mainland Orkney, just before you go over the Churchill Barriers, you can find an intricately carved totem pole. This totem pole was placed here as part of a community project between locals and members of the Squamish First Nations people of Canada. It seems a bit random, but it’s worth stopping!

What to See on the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay, Orkney

I decided to combine this group of islands in one, as they’re all connected to each other and the Mainland thanks to the barriers!

Churchill Barriers

A marvel of engineering, the Churchill Barriers were built during World War II in an effort to close off Scapa Flow to enemy submarines. Much of the work constructing the barriers was actually carried out by Italian prisoners of war. The barriers serve as road links between the Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray, and South Ronaldsay. There are quite a few shipwrecks around the bridges, which are meant to be excellent for diving. Driving over the barriers is so cool – it is such a unique Orkney experience, and can’t be missed.

Italian Chapel

On the side of the road on the island of Lamb Holm, you’ll find this poignant and ornate little Catholic chapel. It was built by the Italian POWs during World War II, and was transformed from two Nissen huts into this beautiful chapel by Domenico Chiocchetti. The interior is stunning – you’d never expect it!! In 2014, unfortunately three of the Station of the Cross were stolen from the Italian Chapel. This shocked the local community – CCTV was installed, and there’s now an admission charge to enter (£3.50 for adults). This is one of the top attractions in Orkney, and with good reason.

Orkney Wine Company

Did you know Orkney had it’s own winery?! Right next to the Italian Chapel, you’ll find the Orkney Wine Company. They make red, white, and rosé fruit wines – along with J. Gow rum. The staff in the shop are happy to offer a few samples so you can do a taste test.

Orkney Fossil and Heritage Center

Located on Burray, you can take a trip back in time at the Orkney Fossil and Heritage Center. This is probably one of the best museums on Orkney for geology and fossils – they also have exhibitions focused on heritage, such as Scapa Flow and the Churchill Barriers. The admission charge is about £5 for adults.

Just north of the museum, make sure to stop in the layby on the A961 road for a great view over the Barrier Islands. It’s listed as “free car park” on Google Maps, but you might want to save the pin.

St. Margaret’s Hope

St. Margaret’s Hope is the main town on South Ronaldsay, and it’s where the Pentland Ferries boat arrives from Gills Bay. While you’re here, stop into the Smiddy Museum – it’s a small place, but it’s full of local history. I loved seeing the costumes and photo archives of the Festival of the Horse and Boys’ Ploughing Match, which takes place on South Ronaldsay. The museum is only open from 2-4:30pm, and costs £2 for adults.

Sands of Wright

This is one of the most spectacular beaches on the Orkney islands. A curved bay with picturesque white sand, it’s just outside of St. Margaret’s Hope and has plenty of parking and toilets. Unfortunately I visited it on an overcast and cloudy afternoon, but the water looks just stunning in the sunlight! This is where the Festival of the Horse and Boys’ Ploughing Match takes places each year. There’s also a short walk here to see a small lake and the Dam of Hoxa.

Hoxa Head

This is a fantastic short walk, where you can see the World War II-era batteries and defenses, as well as great views of the coastline. Head along the coast to see the Hoxa Battery and the Balfour Battery – the buildings are very unsafe, so please don’t enter them. I loved the coastal views here, plus I got to see Pentland Ferries making the journey between St. Margaret’s Hope and the Scottish Mainland! The walk took me 40 minutes and is under 2 miles.

St. Peter’s Church

This is a small church, but it’s really the coastal access that counts. There’s a great view here to the Pool of Cletts, and you can start the coastal walk down the east coast of South Ronaldsay. The walk is about 9 miles, and there is space for parking at the church.

Olav’s Wood

On the small road to St. Peter’s Church, you’ll see a small parking area for two cars and a path leading into woodland. There aren’t that many trees on Orkney, so this little space is a rarity – there’s a burn that runs through the woods. It’s a peaceful place for a stop.

Windwick Bay

Windwick Bay is another incredible beach on Orkney. While it’s a pebble beach and not as good as others for swimming, it’s certainly worth a stop for the dramatic cliffs and seastacks here. It’s meant to be a great place to spot seals! There is a memorial here to the Navy men that lost their lives in a double shipwreck here in 1918.

Tomb of the Otters (Banks Chambered Cairn)

This tomb was recently discovered in a car park in 2010 – several thousand human bones were found, as well as otter droppings. Access is only by a guided tour, which is definitely worth it. The tour guide I had told me all about the site, the history, how it was found, and lots of general local information about Orkney. It costs £7.50 for adults. The tomb is located in the car park next to Skerries Bistro, which I would also definitely recommend. Don’t miss their Orkney fudge cheesecake!

One of the best attractions on South Ronaldsay is the Tomb of the Eagles. Unfortuantely, this is permanently closed until further notice. Check their website for any updates.

What to See on Hoy, Orkney

You can read my full guide to visiting Hoy here. But I also thought I’d share some of the best spots on the island in this post. I spent one day here and stayed overnight, which I really recommend. A daytrip is just so short!

Hoy Heritage Center (Hoy Kirk)

This small local heritage center is in a converted church, just outside Moaness. They have a few exhibitons on the history of the island and the community, as well as housing the community archive. There’s no entrance charge.

Dwarfie Stane

This is a prehistoric tomb, located about 500 meters (across boardwalks) from the road. The stone is big enough that you can crawl into it! Keep an eye out for some historic graffiti inside, too.

Old Man of Hoy

Of course, the main reason people come to Hoy is to see the Old Man of Hoy itself. This impressive seastack is the highest in Europe, and one of the top attractions on the Orkney islands. It was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Orkney and Hoy!

You have to hike to the Old Man of Hoy from Rackwick Bay, which is about 3 miles each way. It’s a steep climb up from the bay, but the views are phenomenal. The Old Man of Hoy, which is really popular with climbers (!), is a sight to behold. It’s also an RSPB reserve, and you can spot seabirds (including puffins!) here. You absolutely cannot miss this when visiting Hoy and Orkney.

Rackwick Bay

This is a beautiful sandy beach on Hoy – it has a dramatic backdrop of steep cliffs behind it. On a clear day, you can see Dunnet Head on the Scottish mainland! There is a bothy here, which I highly recommend staying in. Rackwick Bay is accessible by a good single-track road that connects to the rest of Hoy, or by hiking from Moaness through Rackwick Glen.

The Scapa Flow Museum in Lyness is the main attraction on Hoy. It recently reopened after an extensive renovation, and is meant to be excellent – with exhibitions covering Orkney’s history during World War II, and the history of Scapa Flow itself. If you’re in Longhope, stop by the RNLI Longhope Lifeboat Museum.

What to See on Westray, Orkney

A trip to the North Isles is definitely worth a few days in your Orkney itinerary! I only spent a day on Westray, but I’m so glad I visited here. Read my Westray guide here!

Pierowall

Pierowall is the main village on Westray, with two shops and the most options for food. Stop by the Lady Kirk, admire the views from the harbor, and make sure you visit the Westray Heritage Center. This local museum is home to the Westray Wife, a Neolithic figurine that is the oldest carving of a human in the country!! It’s tiny in real life, but so cool to see. There’s an admission charge of £3 here.

Noltland Castle

Just outside of Pierowall, you can visit this castle that dates back to the 1500s. A lot of it is in ruins now, but there’s still several parts you can explore – keep your eyes peeled for the gun holes dotted along the walls. It’s free to visit.

Grobust

This is possibly the best beach on Westray – long stretches of fine white sand. I was blown away by how beautiful it was, and how quiet it was! The Links of Noltland archaeological site is next ot the beach.

Noup Head

This is an RSPB reserve, and home to one of the biggest colonies of gannets in the country! I also saw plenty of puffins here, as well as other seabirds. I did a great 4.5-mile hike along the coast to the lighthouse and back, starting and ending at Backarass Farm.

Castle o’Burrian

This is one of the best places to see puffins in the UK! I did a sunset puffin tour here with Andy and Karen of Westraak Tours, which was one of the best experiences I had on Orkney. It was so special to see so many puffins, and see them up close! Even if you’re not visiting in puffin season, this is a great place for a short coastal walk.

What to See on Papa Westray, Orkney

I visited Papa Westray for the day, mainly as I wanted to do the shortest commercial flight in the world! Here’s what to do on the island. Check out my Papa Westray guide, too.

Knap of Howar

This is the oldest preserved Neolithic settlement in Northern Europe – it’s 500 years older than Skara Brae! It’s simply incredible, and is a must-see on the island. It’s free to visit, and you’re able to walk in the stone houses, too.

St. Boniface Kirk

This church dates back to the 8th century, and you can see a 12th-century Norse hogback grave in the cemetery. It underwent a restoration in the 1990s, and is still used for events and services today.

Loch of St. Tredwell

This loch is the largest body of water on Papa Westray. It also has the ruins of a small chapel on a peninsula, which juts out into the loch. St. Tredwell’s Chapel is really just heaps of stone ruins now, but it used to be a pilgrimage center in Orkney.

Coastal Walk

I definitely recommend hiking along the northern part of the island – Papa Westray is small enough that you can walk around most of the island in a day. I started from the Knap of Howar and hiked up the western coast, past the RSPB North Hill reserve, before reaching the northernmost point and continuing down the eastern coast to the Kelp Store. If you want to see puffins, I recommend going to the Head of Moclett, by the ferry terminal.

My best puffin sightings on Papa Westray were at the Head of Moclett, so don’t miss it!

Holm of Papay

A boat trip out to the Holm of Papay is a must if you’re visiting Papa Westray. This was a real highlight from my Orkney trip! Jonathan, the Papay Ranger, will organize a boat trip over to the Holm of Papay for you. There’s a large cairn with graffiti inside – I had about 2 hours to explore the Holm of Papay, and it was a perfect amount of time. This excursion cost £25.

Planning Your Trip to Orkney

The Orkney Islands are located just north of the Scottish mainland, and accessible by ferry or by flying into Kirkwall Airport. Loganair has direct flights from several cities in the UK. There are four options for ferries: Scrabster to Stromness (North Link Ferries), Gills Bay to St. Margaret’s Hope (Pentland Ferries), Aberdeen to Kirkwall (North Link Ferries), and the foot-passenger ferry from John o’Groats to Burwick (Jog Ferry). Make sure to check out my post on what to know before visiting Orkney to help plan logistics of your trip.

There are no trains here, although the Mainland has a network of buses that aim to link up with the various ferry schedules. For other islands, check locally if they have any buses and when they run. I highly recommend having a car, at least on the Mainland, to make jam-packed itineraries like this possible. I didn’t have a car on Hoy, Papa Westray, or Westray, and managed just fine – although I did miss a few things on Hoy, and I did rent a bike for the day on Westray. But I drove everywhere on the Mainland, so I absolutely suggest having your own set of wheels.

I wild camped for the majority of my Orkney trip. Wild camping is legal in Scotland provided you follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. This includes leaving no trace (including fires), camping only in small groups, and only spending a short number of nights in one place. I only ever camped for one night at each location.

On Papa Westray, I stayed at the hostel, Beltane House. This was a fantastic place to stay, connected to the village shop, and also a community hub. I’d absolutely stay here again! On Westray, I stayed at Chalmersquoy Hostel, which was excellent.

I stayed at Burnmouth bothy (at Rackwick Bay) for my night on Hoy. Find out everything you need to know about bothies in my guide!

There are so many unique accommodation options on Mainland Orkney. If you’re relying on public transportation, I’d recommend basing yourself in Kirkwall (or maybe Stromness). I met several people who stayed at one of the hostels in Kirkwall. You can search for Kirkwall accommodation here, and Stromness accommodation here. Use the map below for all the options available!

Booking.com

 

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more. I highly recommend this Orkney guidebook – it was such a great resource for me both when I was planning my trip, and when I was there! If you’re interested in a tour to Orkney, check out the options below.

Orkney is one of the best places I’ve ever visited. It is so unique, with so much to see and do – from wild coastal walks to ancient sites and amazing wildlife. I easily could have spent another week here, it really is incredible. I hope this blog post helps you in planning your trip to Orkney!

Have you ever visited Orkney before? Is it on your bucket list?

You might also like my posts:

Orkney: What You Need to Know Before You Go

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Orkney on a Budget?

What to Pack For a Trip to Orkney, Scotland

Where to See Puffins on Orkney

What to See and Do on Westray, Orkney

A Travel Guide For Papa Westray, Orkney

Hoy, Orkney: Visiting the Old Man of Hoy and Rackwick Bay

The World’s Shortest Commercial Flight: Papa Westray to Westray With Loganair

A 7-Day Itinerary for Scotland’s North Coast 500 Road Trip

All of my Scotland posts!

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