For far too long, I’ve been guilty of driving through the North Pennines without stopping on my way to the Lake District. Last summer I decided that needed to change! I had a fantastic weekend exploring this underrated and beautiful part of the north of England. The North Pennines AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) falls in County Durham, Cumbria, Northumberland, and North Yorkshire. But for most of this trip, I focused on the parts around County Durham and Cumbria. This is a really amazing part of the country and I don’t know why it doesn’t see more visitors! Here’s my guide for what to see and do in the spectacular North Pennines AONB.
What to See in the North Pennines
High Cup Nick
One of the best walks in the North Pennines and one of the most phenomenal views in all of England, you can’t miss High Cup Nick. The walk starts in Dufton, but if you get lucky you may be able to park a bit closer to the starting point. It took me just under 3 hours to do this walk, and I’d recommend you read my blog post on hiking High Cup Nick for all the details! The view over the dramatic valley below is one of the most stunning in the country. Don’t miss it.
Dufton
This small village is one of my favorites in the area! There’s not much there besides a café, a pub (the Stag Inn), the car park/toilets, and a few places to stay (including a YHA). But if it’s the quiet village life you’re looking for (which ends with a pint at the pub), Dufton is simply perfect. There’s a pretty little walk through Dufton Ghyll Wood, which loops around the southern edge of the village. I actually stayed here at the campsite, and would always come back if I’m in the area!
Brough Castle
Pronounced “bruff,” this castle is mainly in ruins now. But it’s free to visit, and you can see what remains of the keep that commanded views all over the area. Next door is the fantastic Brough Castle Ice Cream Parlor and Tearoom, which I can’t recommend enough! Parking for the castle is in the village, but if you’re visiting the ice cream parlor they also have parking (both of which are free).
Cross Fell
At 893 meters, this is the highest peak in England outside of the Lake District! It’s one of the best walks to do in the North Pennines, and I can’t recommend it enough. I did a 10-mile loop starting from the village of Kirkland. There’s parking for about 5-6 cars at the start of the trail, or room for 8-10 cars near the church. There are other options to extend it along the Pennine Way and take in Great Mell Fell and Little Mell Fell, but after popping into Greg’s Hut bothy and reaching the summit, I decided to just stick with the loop. It took me 4.5 hours to do this hike.
The views are phenomenal and you can see for miles on a clear day. There’s a rugged, remote beauty to the North Pennines which I just love. In bad weather though, it can be brutal here. I really recommend having a GPS device (I use the OS Maps app on my phone) so you can see exactly where you are. The path wasn’t clear or visible in many places, and this was on a sunny day with blue skies! I can imagine it can be really easy to get yourself lost or in danger in this area. So be prepared and bring all your appropriate outdoor gear.
Hartside Pass
I was continually shocked at the beauty of the North Pennines as I drove through the area. If you’re in this area, you can’t miss Hartside Pass on the A686 road. The summit is 1904 feet, where there’s a café and a parking area. You can see all the way to Scotland and the Solway Firth! You’ll drive through Alston, the highest market town in the North Pennines. Don’t miss driving Hartside Pass on your trip!
Ashgill Force
You can visit this pretty waterfall on a short walk from Garrigill, I decided to hop out and see it just from the B6277 road. There’s parking for 2-3 cars in a layby just before the bridge. While the waterfall wasn’t all that impressive due to the recent dry weather, it was a really pretty area and fun to walk around the different cascades!
For beautiful scenery, I’d recommend driving the road from Langdon Beck to St. John’s Chapel. This is just a gorgeous part of the North Pennines—and one of the best parts about roadtripping is all the scenic drives!
Weardale (The Bumps)
One of the biggest surprises of my trip to the North Pennines was coming across the Bumps in Weardale! As it was a hot sunny day, the place was rammed with families having picnics and swimming. It’s close to the village of Frosterley.
Blanchland
This small village in the North Pennines has become Insta-famous in recent years, thanks to its honey-stone cottages and buildings and quiet charm. It’s definitely worth a wander, and the Lord Crewe Arms pub/hotel is meant to be one of the best places in the area. I took about a million photos here and it was just so picturesque! There is a car park—parking by donation—at one end of the village.
Cow Green Reservoir and Cauldron Snout
By far one of the best places to see in the North Pennines AONB is Cauldron Snout. This waterfall is right on the Pennine Way, and one of the major highlights of the region. It’s an easy 30-minute walk (one-way) from the parking areas at Cow Green Reservoir to see the falls. I absolutely loved this waterfall, and I think it has to be one of my favorites in the area!
High Force
Not far from Cauldron Snout is another of the North Pennine’s most spectacular sights: High Force Waterfall. This waterfall on the River Tees drops 70 feet (21 meters) down the cliff and you simply can’t miss it on a visit to the area. If you park at the main car park (at the High Force Hotel), you’ll need to pay an admission fee of £2/adult to see the waterfall. Low Force is another part of the same waterfall but further upstream. You can walk from Low Force to High Force.
If you want to see the remote beauty of the Pennines and feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere, drive the B6276 from Brough to High Force.
What to See Around the North Pennines
Brougham Castle
While technically I think Brougham Castle (pronounced “broom”) is slightly outside the North Pennines AONB border, it’s just outside Penrith so only down the road from some of the other sites. There’s more remaining of this castle than of Brough Castle, and there’s a great view of the castle from the bridge over the river. It’s operated by English Heritage and there is an admission fee.
Appleby-in-Westmorland
While Appleby-in-Westmorland is also technically outside the AONB border, it’s the main town in the area and has good transport links if you’re using public transportation. The River Eden runs through town and there’s lots of shops and places to eat here. Just a few miles outside of town, you’ll find Rutter Force. This is a beautiful, scenic waterfall tucked away down a quiet country road.
For many years, I stopped at the New Crown Inn in Bolton on my way to or from the Lake District. This has been one of my favorite pubs in a quiet, pretty village in the Eden Valley. I’ve never been disappointed by their food and if you’re passing through, definitely stop here!
Barnard Castle
Barnard Castle, southeast of the North Pennines AONB, is more than just a place to check your eyesight. This is a busy town with lots of independent shops and places to eat and drink. It’s also home to Barnard Castle itself, which is certainly worth a visit, as well as the Bowes Museum. I ran out of time to visit the Bowes Museum properly, but I definitely need to go back! It’s housed in a magnificent French chateaux-style building and can’t be missed on a trip to Country Durham. Barnard Castle definitely deserves more time than I had, and it would make a great base for some of the attractions in the area.
Egglestone Abbey
These abbey ruins are located just a few miles away from Barnard Castle. If you’re visiting, I really recommend the quiet riverside walk along the River Tees. The 12th-century ruins are free to visit and make a great spot for a picnic.
Raby Castle
One of the best places to visit in County Durham, Raby Castle is a magnificent medieval castle, located in a pretty deer park. You can visit the 14th-century castle itself, but make sure to give yourself enough time to explore the park and gardens. This is one place that’s been on my list for years and I still haven’t made it there yet, so I think it’s time to fix that!
Planning Your Trip
I camped at Grandie Caravan Park in Dufton for the two nights of my trip. It’s mainly caravans, however they do have space for a few tents and it was very affordable (£8/night). I thought Dufton was an excellent base to explore the North Pennines—if you’re not wanting to camp, there are plenty of other places to stay in the surrounding area too!
The North Pennines AONB is best explored with your own set of wheels. If you’re relying on public transportation, Appleby does have a train station. I always buy my train tickets in advance with Trainline. If you’re flying, Manchester Airport will probably be most convenient. I book my flights through Skyscanner. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
The North Pennines is a beautiful part of England, and one that seems to be overshadowed and overlooked by tourists visiting the Lake District or other parts of Northern England. There is so much to see and do here—from amazing scenery and walks, to historic sites and pretty villages. If you haven’t been to this hidden gem in the north of England, I hope this blog post helps in planning your trip!
Have you been to the North Pennines AONB? What were your favorite spots?
You might also like my posts:
High Cup Nick: An Underrated And Extraordinary Hike In Cumbria
30 Incredible Places to Visit in the Lake District
Exploring Northumberland: A Coastal Road Trip Itinerary
A 6-Day Itinerary For Hiking Hadrian’s Wall
The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide To England’s Lake District
The Ultimate Yorkshire Guide: 99 Incredible Places to Visit in Yorkshire
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[…] have actually visited this bothy before, but not spent the night! In the North Pennines, Greg’s Hut bothy is close to the summit of Cross Fell – the highest mountain in England […]