Yorkshire has been my home for 6 years now, so I’ve spent a lot of time exploring the Yorkshire Dales. One area that has eluded me for so long is the Howgills, in the part of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. This part of the Dales is partly in the county of Cumbria – it’s a new addition to the national park from 2016. It doesn’t see the mass crowds that you’ll find in other parts of the Yorkshire Dales, yet it’s a spectacular place. So, I set off to explore this area over a quick weekend break!

What to See Around the Howgills

The boundaries here mix between North Yorkshire and Cumbria, including the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the Eden Valley – plus it’s very close to the North Pennines AONB. So please forgive me if anything is listed on the wrong side of an official border. The long-distance Coast to Coast path also crosses through here – it’s recently been upgraded to an official National Trail. Here are the best things to see and do on a weekend in the Howgills and Mallerstang!

Nine Standards Rigg

This set of nine funky rock formations, high up on a ridge with a spectacular view, is one place you can’t miss in the Howgills. Although it’s technically just outside the national park boundary, it’s directly on the Coast to Coast path. There are a number of routes up here – either coming from Kirkby Stephen or a layby off the B6270, on the border between North Yorkshire and Cumbria.

I did a shorter hike – I drove from Kirkby Stephen to a parking area in Hartley. If you want to do this hike, I recommend pinning the exact spot on GoogleMaps. I’m not sure if parking is actually allowed here, as it’s on a single-track road past a farm that ends abruptly at a farm gate. But there were no signs to say otherwise, and there is space for 2-3 cars here that doesn’t block any gates or passing places.

The hike up Nine Standards Rigg here is on a track and then a well-trodden path. It took me 45 minutes from where I parked to get up to them. It felt slightly eerie being here on my own, but it was a perfect summer’s evening and the views were amazing! I walked out to the trig point that marks the summit of Nine Standards Rigg, and then headed down to my car the same way. All in all, it took me just under 2 hours and was approximately 4.6 miles.

Wild Boar Fell

One of the best hikes around the Howgills is Wild Boar Fell – a stunner of a walk that somehow seems to fly under the radar. This is one of the Dales 30, the highest 30 summits in the Yorkshire Dales. You can easily do a route that includes Swarth Fell (another Dales 30 summit) as well. I parked at Cotegill Bridge on the B6259 road, where there is room in a large layby for about 8 cars. There are a few other nearby laybys if this spot is full.

We ended up doing a bit of a mad route up across the grassland to the ridge, bagging Swarth Fell first before the climb to the summit of Wild Board Fell. Then we followed the Pennine Bridleway back down to the road, and made our way back to the bridge via some of the little-used, over-grown public footpaths. We only saw a handful of other people on the whole route!

This hike took just under 5 hours and was approximately 8.5 miles. If you wanted to do a linear walk, and/or are relying on public transport, check out my friend Anna’s post on hiking Wild Boar Fell!

The Calf and Cautley Spout

Hiking up the Calf is one of the most popular walks in the Howgills, and Cautley Spout is the longest cascade waterfall in England – so you can’t miss either of them on a trip here. Park in the laybys near the Temperance Inn, off the A683 road. These can fill up as the day goes on, so please park considerately. It’ll take about 20-30 minutes to reach the bottom of Cautley Spout. The next stretch of the hike is the steep incline on a stepped path straight up the side of the waterfall. The views are great though!

After reaching the top of the waterfall, the path follows the beck and then climbs up to the summit trig point of the Calf. There are plenty of other fells you can explore from here if you like. The views are just amazing – and the summit is pretty much crowd-free! I did an out-and-back route, and headed back down the same way I came. Altogether, the hike took me 3 hours 20 minutes and was approximately 5.2 miles. This is definitely one of the major highlights of visiting the Howgills.

Pendragon Castle

Pendragon Castle is a ruined 12th-century castle just off the B6259 road. There’s not much left here anymore, but the ruins are worth a scramble around, and it makes a nice picnic spot. There’s room for several cars in a large layby right next to the entrance gate.

Smardale Gill Viaduct

For an easy walk in the Howgills, head to Smardale for a walk out to Smardale Gill Viaduct. This disused viaduct, built in 1861, is made of 14 arches and is now on a pedestrian/cycle trail in a nature reserve. There is a free Cumbria Wildlife Trust car park, and it’s easy to follow the former rail trail out to the viaduct. This is a pretty area and certain worth visiting if you’re nearby.

Kirkby Stephen

This charming town makes a great base for exploring the Howgills and Mallerstang. Head to the River Eden and see the old bridge, dating back to the 17th century. The Black Bull pub is meant to be the best restaurant in the area, and I loved my visit to La’l Nook. This tiny pub has excellent beer and super-friendly staff – it’s the kind of place where everyone knows each other and you’re made to feel right at home.

Sedbergh

Sedbergh is a gorgeous town in the Cumbrian part of the Yorkshire Dales. And it’s full of second-hand bookshops, perfect for spending a day browsing! I’ve been to Hay-on-Wye in Wales and Wigtown in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, and I definitely feel like Sedbergh is the English equivalent. There are several nice cafes, pubs, and other independent shops – plus the Black Bull Inn, which was highly recommended for food. This would also be a great spot to base yourself in for exploring the Howgills!

Ravenstonedale

This stunning village flies under the radar, due to its vaguely remote location – it’s not really that close to anything. But those who make the trip out will be wowed by the gorgeous houses and buildings. A trip to the Black Swan is a must, or you can even choose to stay there! There’s plenty of good walks around the Howgills that start in Ravenstonedale.

Gamelands Stone Circle

This stone circle is made up of 33 stones. Supposedly dating back to 1800-1400 BCE, today it’s located in a quiet field with great views of the Howgills. It’s a 3-minute walk from where you can park in a small layby – there’s only room for 1 or maybe 2 cars here. I recommend using this pinned location on GoogleMaps if you’re visiting.

Dent and Dentdale

While it’s not technically part of the Howgills, I used this trip as an opportunity to finally visit the pretty village of Dent in the Yorkshire Dales. Dentdale is an awkward place to get to, as it’s not close to any major highways – or major roads in general. But it’s a stunning village, full of charming cobblestone streets and pretty stone houses, and home to the Dent Village Heritage Center and Museum. I did a short walk along the River Dee here – and there’s definitely more I want to explore around this area.

Planning Your Trip

It’s easiest to get around the Howgills if you have your own car. However, there are some public transportation options. Kirkby Stephen and Garsdale both have train stations, serviced by the Settle to Carlisle train line. Be aware that Kirkby Stephen station is approximately 2 miles away from the town. I always book my train tickets in advance on Trainline. Bus S4 runs between Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen a few days a week.

Where I Stayed

I stayed at Kirkby Stephen Hostel, which was such a unique and wonderful place to stay! The hostel is in an old church building. The common room and kitchen are in the old nave of the church. I was glad it wasn’t busy, as my 6-bed dorm room would have been a tight squeeze if it had been full. But it’s excellent value for money, and Denise is such a friendly and welcoming host. I’d absolutely stay here again. You can search for more places to stay in the area below!

Booking.com

The Howgills and Mallerstang are an area of the Yorkshire Dales that doesn’t seem to see many crowds – which is strange as it’s simply wonderful! Whether you’re bagging peaks around the Howgill Fells, or want to pop around pretty villages and historic sites, you shouldn’t miss a trip to the Howgills. I hope this post helps in planning your visit!

Have you visited this part of the Yorkshire Dales before?

You might also like my posts:

The BEST Places to Visit in the Yorkshire Dales

The Ultimate Yorkshire Guide: 88 Incredible Places to Visit in Yorkshire

Hiking Ingleborough From Clapham in the Yorkshire Dales

The Prettiest Villages to See in Swaledale

A Quick Guide to Aysgarth Falls in the Yorkshire Dales

Exploring Wharfedale: Hiking From Grassington to Hebden in the Yorkshire Dales

All of my Yorkshire posts!

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