I grew up going to the Boundary Waters in Northern Minnesota – my family went usually at least once a year throughout my childhood. This summer, I finally had the opportunity to do another trip as an adult. My family and I spent five days in the BWCAW, starting at Moose River. If you’re looking for a great five-day itinerary for the Boundary Waters, this is the post for you!

Day 1: Start at Moose River

The first day starts at the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness entry point at Moose River. This is the beginning of the adventure! There is a 160-rod portage to start with, to get to the river itself. Afterwards, there are two short portages, then a long, winding stretch of the Moose River to navigate before coming to Nina Moose Lake. There were quite a lot of beaver dams on this section of the river, some of which we needed to get out of the canoe to get across.

After paddling across the lake, there are two more portages along the Moose River. These definitely felt tiring after so much paddling, even though they are relatively short (70 and 96 rods respectively). Following another peaceful stretch of the Moose River, you’ll arrive at Agnes Lake. After four portages and several long hours of paddling, set up camp here on Agnes Lake and relax for the rest of the afternoon!

Day 2: Paddle to Lac La Croix

From Lake Agnes, carry on deeper into the Boundary Waters to Lac La Croix. There are two short portages (24 and 65 rods) to navigate before reaching Lac La Croix itself. Pick a campsite to set up camp for two nights here, preferably towards the northern end of the lake. The campsites on the islands just before the US-Canada border are highly recommended – it’s one of my family’s favorite campsites in the Boundary Waters!

Unfortunately, we didn’t have great weather for the rest of our day on Lac La Croix. The rain started as we paddled into Lac La Croix, and continued all afternoon! So we spent most of the time in our tents. However, it was still unique to be camped right by the US-Canada border – we could see Canada from our campsite! This was so special for me.

Day 3: Daytrip to Curtain Falls

This is a busy day of paddling, but easier as the canoes are lighter without all the camp gear. From Lac Lac Croix, head across Bottle Portage (80 rods) into Iron Lake. Throughout the day, you’ll paddle along the International Border between the United States and Canada. This was one of the coolest experiences of my life! Keep an eye on the map as you navigate your way through the channels and around the islands as you head towards Curtain Falls.

Canoeing alongside the US-Canada border is a real treat. Keep an eye out for the small, metal, triangular border markers on either side of the narrow channel at the beginning. There’s a short 10- to 15-minute walk from the portage point at Curtain Falls to the actual waterfall itself. The bugs were merciless here, so be prepared.

Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent Curtain Falls – the waterfall itself marks the border between the US and Canada! My family and I had lunch here, on the rocks right next to the international border marker. The waterfall is so impressive, the roaring water rushing over the rocks.

In May 2024, there was an unfortunate accident where two boaters, located at the top of the falls, went over the falls and lost their lives. Be very cautious of the strong currents here, and do not risk your life if the currents are unsafe.

Retrace your journey and head back to your campsite on Lac La Croix. Again, the paddling is easier as the canoes are lighter without camp gear. Enjoy a second night on Lac La Croix – I loved waking up with a view of Canada, again!

Day 4: Heading Back to Nina Moose Lake

Break camp on Lac La Croix, and follow your previous route back to Nina Moose Lake. Enjoy paddling along the river, across Lake Agnes, and down the Moose River before reaching a campsite on Nina Moose Lake. It’s the same route as the way in, so you’ll have four portages to do on this day: 65 rods, 24 rods, 96 rods, and 70 rods. Even though none of these portages are particularly long, I found it physically tiring and draining having to do so many of them. Once you get to Nina Moose Lake, set up camp and relax. The majority of the paddling is done on the trip now!

Day 5: Leaving the Boundary Waters

The final day of this itinerary is a short one. Pack up camp on Nina Moose Lake, and paddle back down the winding Moose River to the parking lot. There are two short portages again, as well as the 160-rod final portage at the end. After substantial rain, I was pleased that many of the beaver dams we’d encountered on the way in were much easier to cross!

If you’re driving back home, you’ll be able to get on the road early. My family and I drove from Moose River back down to Minneapolis that afternoon.

Where to Stay Around Ely, Minnesota

If you’re planning an itinerary to this part of the Boundary Waters, you’ll be passing through Ely at some point. We stayed at a campground outside Ely for the first night of our trip, so we could head to Moose River and start our Boundary Waters adventure right away the next morning. Fenskie Lake was the perfect campground for this: it’s a short 30-minute drive to the Moose River entry point, plus there’s a swimming area. I felt so lucky getting to spend the night on this peaceful, tranquil lake before heading into the Boundary Waters!

If you’re wanting a bit of luxury before roughing it in campgrounds in the Boundary Waters, here are a few options for places to stay in Ely:

• A Stay Inn Ely – cozy rooms in a homey B&B that gives cabin vibes and features a shared lounge, kitchen, and garden
• Grand Ely Lodge Resort & Conference Center – super comfortable rooms, a big indoor pool, and two tasty on-site restaurants – all with a lakeside location!
• Adventure Inn – no-frills motel accommodation in an unbeatable location on the Voyageur Highway in Ely

Planning Your Trip to the Boundary Waters

The nearest airport for the Boundary Waters is technically Range Regional Airport in Hibbing, which is just over an hour’s drive from Ely. However, Minnesota’s top airport, Minneapolis-St. Paul airport, is by far the most convenient for flights. It’s about a four-hour drive from there to Ely. Duluth airport (a two-hour drive from Ely) is another option. I always use Skyscanner to book the best flight deals. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is such a special part of Minnesota. Getting to return with my family as an adult was so meaningful to me! This five-day Boundary Waters itinerary, starting from Moose River, is perfect for exploring the unique parts of the Boundary Waters along the US-Canada International Border, and visiting Curtain Falls. I hope this post helps if you’re planning a canoe trip itinerary in the Boundary Waters!

Have you visited the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness before?

You might also like my posts:

Planning Your Trip to the Boundary Waters: What to Know & Top Packing Tips

Amazing Places to Visit Up North in Minnesota

6 Reasons to Visit Minnesota in Winter

A Guide For Your North Shore Road Trip

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