The day I hiked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in New Zealand is one of my favorite travel days of my life. With poor weather forecast for the entirety of my time in the area, I’d given up hope that I’d be able to do this phenomenal hike. At 9pm before the first full day, the weather forecast did a complete 180 – it now predicted excellent visibility and no weather hazards. I’ve never booked anything so fast in my life! I feel so lucky that I got to do this hike. Here’s everything you need to know about the Tongariro Alpine Crossing!

Tongariro Alpine Crossing: Overview

There are several different numbers given for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike. Some official reports say 19.4km, others say 20.2km. I found the elevation gain to be listed as anywhere from 650 to 900 meters – which is a big difference! The below stats are based on Strava from my actual hike. I completed the hike in just under 7 hours.

Distance: 22.3km (13.8 miles)

Time: 6.5 to 9 hours

Elevation: 877 meters (2876 ft)

How to Get to Tongariro Alpine Crossing

This hike is located in Tongariro National Park on the North Island of New Zealand. It’s approximately 4 hours from Auckland and 3.5 hours from Wellington. It’s easiest and most convenient if you have your own vehicle. However, there is a train service that runs through the National Park three times a week, and stops just at the end of the village close to the shuttle stop. There are also more regular Intercity bus services.

Shuttles for Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Due to parking restrictions at either end of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike, you will need to take (and pay for) a shuttle service to do this hike between October and April. The parking restrictions are lifted for those hiking in winter, from May to September. There is a four-hour limit at the starting point (Mangatepopo car park) and at the end point (Ketetahi car park). The walk will take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours, so it is simply impossible to do this hike without taking a shuttle when these parking restrictions are in place.

You have two main options for the shuttle. The first is to take a shuttle from one of the stops in National Park Village to the starting point; the shuttle then departs from the finish point at Ketetahi at certain times, to take you back to National Park Village. This is the option I did! It cost $60 per person, and the pick-up point was at the end of the Kiwicamp/park and ride car park.

The second shuttle option is to drive your own vehicle to a private car park near the end point (Ketetahi) and take a shuttle to the starting point of the hike from there. This option is very convenient as it means after the end of the hike, you can simply walk to your car and drive off – no waiting for a shuttle bus that runs only at set times. I would have done this, but as I booked so last-minute there was no availability. This option costs $70 per person – find out more information and book here. There is also an option to park your vehicle on the side of the road, instead of a secure car park, and take the shuttle – this costs $60 per person.

Booking a DOC Timeslot for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

In 2023, the Department of Conservation (DOC) introduced a new booking system for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This was brought in to help protect the fragile environment of the area, and allow the DOC to communicate directly with visitors to Tongariro National Park. There is no charge to book a slot – it’s free. You can also cancel/rebook if your plans change. You’ll need to do this if you’re using a shuttle service to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It is a simple form, asking for contact details, and a few questions about the experience level of the party and transportation to/from the hike. Book your slot on the DOC website here.

What to Pack for Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Make no mistake: the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is an intense, challenging, full-day alpine hike. Just because it’s popular, doesn’t mean it’s easy. You need to be prepared and have a good level of fitness to do this hike. You’ll need sturdy hiking boots – I love my Scarpa Mistrals! I also highly recommend hiking poles for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. They saved my life coming down the scree slopes, and saved my knees on the descent. The walk is very exposed, and there is next to no shelter from the elements until you reach the forest at the very end. Bring waterproof layers, as well as a warm jacket, hat, and gloves. You’ll also need a hat and sunscreen. Pack plenty of water, as there’s nowhere to fill up on the hike. You should also bring lots of snacks and all the food you’ll need for the full-day hike. There are drop toilets located at several locations on the hike, however bring your own toilet paper.

Starting the Hike: Up to the Red Crater

The beginning of the hike is through epic volcanic landscapes. The trail follows a boardwalk for several kilometers, through the black rock, with incredible views of Mount Ngauruhoe. The first steep ascent brings you closer to the base of the mountain. As this is a sacred area (particularly the peak) for the local Maori people, visitors are respectfully asked not to climb it. There is no signage or trails to the mountain summit, and with the shuttle requirements it’s not possible to do in a single day.

The route continues through a flat valley before climbing again. The views from this ridgeline are incredible – especially seeing across to the other side of the trail! There’s one final push to get to the summit of the Red Crater, which is looming ahead of you. Once you’re here, the route is almost all downhill from here. It took me almost exactly 3 hours to get to the top of the Red Crater.

The Descent to the Emerald Lakes

One of the most iconic views on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is looking down at the brightly colored Emerald Lakes. I’d been dreaming of this for years, and it felt so surreal to finally get there! However, the descent from the Red Crater down to the lakes is one of the worst hiking experiences I had in New Zealand. The entire path is a single scree slope, so you are sliding down over unstable ground. I am SO glad I had my hiking poles for this part! I think my knees would have never forgiven me if I hadn’t had my poles. Take your time on this section, particularly if passing/going around others.

The lakes are sacred for local Maori, so please do not touch them, swim in them, or skip rocks on them. They’re beautiful though, and be sure to walk around to see some of the steam and geothermal activity in the area! You’ll definitely smell the sulphur here.

Blue Lake and the Final Descent

After leaving the Emerald Lakes, there’s one last surprise in store on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing: the Blue Lake. After heading across the volcanic plain, there’s an uphill climb to the ridge – this is the last uphill section of the hike, everything from this point onwards is downhill! The Blue Lake is stunning. I spent another good chunk of time taking photos here.

After leaving the Blue Lake, you cross onto the other side of the peak, and the scenery is a bit less dramatic. Volcanic craters and rock are replaced with hillside and forest. The path meanders down and around the mountainside, with views of Lake Taupo in the far distance. This hiking was enjoyable and relatively easy, compared to what I’d already done! Eventually, you’ll reach the end point of the hike, Ketetahi. It took me exactly 3 hours from leaving the geothermal lakes to finish the hike.

Other Places to Visit in Tongariro National Park

Tongariro Alpine Crossing is by far the most popular destination and activity in the national park. However, there are a number of other spots and hikes to do here, too! Lord of the Rings fans will want to visit Tawhai Falls, which was a film location for Gollum’s Pool. It’s a short 20-minute walk to get here; note that the parking area is fairly small. Tama Lakes is a fantastic back-up option if the weather forecast isn’t good enough to do Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It’s 17.6km and will take 5-6 hours. Taranaki Falls is another great waterfall to visit in the area, a 6km loop that will take about 2 hours – I wish I’d gone here! Mangawhero Falls, near Mount Ruapehu, is another pretty waterfall to visit. It’s a short five-minute walk, and was also a film location in Lord of the Rings.

I also enjoyed an afternoon biking the Old Coach Road near Ohakune. It cost $60 per person for half-day bike rental and a shuttle service to the starting point in Horipito, booked through TCB in Ohakune. Be sure to stop at the carrot-themed rest area, Ohakune Carrot Adventure Park!

Planning Your Trip to Tongariro National Park

Like most of New Zealand, it’s easiest to visit Tongariro National Park with your own vehicle. However, there is a train service three times a week, and regular Intercity bus connections. So, it’s possible to visit the area and do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike using public transportation. There is a tiny airport here, but the most convenient major airport will be Auckland airport. I use Skyscanner to find the best flight deals. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more. Interested in tours, shuttles, or a guided hike? Check out activities around Tongariro National Park below!

Where to Stay for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

National Park Village is the most convenient place to base yourself for hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, especially if relying on public transport and shuttles. There is a Kiwicamp freedom campsite in the village – vehicles can park in the large park and ride car park. There are free toilets at the site; there are also (hot) showers, laundry, and kitchen facilities, which are payable through a Kiwicamp account. If you don’t have a Kiwicamp digital key (fob)  you can purchase one (it costs $5) at Schnapps Bar just down the road from the Kiwicamp. You can reserve a space in a secure parking area for $10 per night.

There’s a variety of other accommodation options in the National Park if you don’t want to camp. Where you stay will depend on where you’re getting the shuttle from (and vice versa), but National Park Village is again a very convenient location, especially if using public transport. Here are a few options, all of which are convenient for shuttle pick-ups and drop-offs!

• Budget: National Park Backpackers – clean hostel accommodation in a great location in National Park Village
• Mid-range: The Park Hotel Ruapehu – relaxed rooms and suites, with a popular on-site restaurant
• Mid-range: National Park Alpine Lodge – clean and comfortable rooms, with a shared lounge, kitchen, and terrace
• Boutique: Plateau Lodge – beautiful rooms and studios, with super-comfy beds and friendly staff

You can find more accommodation options using the map below!

Hiking Tongariro Alpine Crossing was at the top of my New Zealand bucket list. I was so disappointed when the weather forecast looked like it would be impossible, and absolutely thrilled that I got to do it in the end! This is a challenging full-day hike, but so worth it. Hiking through volcanic landscapes, I felt like I was on another planet. If you only do one big hike in New Zealand, it should be this one. I hope this post helps planning your Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike!

Have you hiked Tongariro Alpine Crossing? What was your experience like?

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