There are so many wonderful hikes in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, it’s hard to choose one. After exploring so much of Yorkshire in the last nearly 6 years here, I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Upper Wharfedale. This is a great part of the Yorkshire Dales, and home to the Wharfedale Three Peaks: Buckden Pike, Great Whernside, and Birks Fell. I loved hiking up Great Whernside from Kettlewell – it’s 704 meters high, and I actually got a view! Don’t confuse it with Whernside, one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks near Ribblehead. If you’re wanting to hike Great Whernside, here’s my walk recap!
Starting the Hike in Kettlewell
Kettlewell is a small village. There is a Yorkshire Dales National Park car park, which charges £5 for over 2 hours. There is also a small car park (a sharp right turn just after crossing the bridge), which is £3 for all day parking. This is cash only and paid in a box, so make sure to bring coins with you. There are public toilets in the village, as well as two pubs right across from each other, a shop, and a café.
Kettlewell to the Summit of Great Whernside
The ascent up from the village to Great Whernside is steep and can feel unrelenting at times. But the views are phenomenal, and there are flatter sections where the path is more undulating than steep. It’s relatively easy to follow in good visibility.
As you ascend up the hill, you’ll reach Hag Dyke. This is a hostel, and a Scout center – you can stay here! I think that’s so cool. It took me about 45 minutes from leaving Kettlewell to reach Hag Dyke. Once you’re past the hostel, you’re nearly at the summit.
The summit is marked by a large trig and a rocky area that provides some shelter from the wind. I was so thrilled to be at the top and be able to see a view – it was the first view I’d had from a summit in England in 9 months! It took me about 1 hour and 25 minutes from leaving Kettlewell to reach the summit.
Descending Down to Starbotton Road
It’s a fairly long walk across the Great Whernside summit plateau before you start the real descent. Once you reach the wall, you’ll turn left and then right to cross the wall. The descent then becomes very steep – I was so glad I had my hiking poles! They’re a lifesaver for my knees on steep descents. (Read my outdoor gear guide here!)
About 45 minutes after leaving the summit, I reached the road. There’s a signpost here, as well as parking space for 2-3 cars. If you wanted, you could probably start the loop here – but I definitely prefer ending in Kettlewell. There’s beautiful scenery behind you as you look up to the summit of Great Whernside, as you cross the road and carry on the path to Starbotton Road.
Back to Kettlewell
The last part of the hike is along a bridleway track, which is easy to follow. It took me about 50 minutes from reaching Starbotton Road (the track) to get back to the village. The views as you descend down towards the village are just classic Yorkshire Dales – green fields and hills, lined with drystone walls. It’s views like this that make my heart sing.
Overall, the hike from Kettlewell to Great Whernside and back took me 3 hours and 50 minutes. According to my Strava, it was 7.9 miles, with 552 meters of elevation gain. It’s definitely worthy of a pint at the end as a reward!
Planning Your Trip
There are a few accommodation options in Kettlewell: there’s the Kettlewell Hostel, the Racehorses Hotel and the Blue Bell Inn (the two main pubs in town), and a smattering of other options. There’s also the Kettlewell Campsite, if you’re looking to camp. You can search for hostels here, or hotels/B&Bs here.
It’s easier to get to Kettlewell if you have your own car. If you are traveling by bus, the best option is to take bus 72, which travels between Skipton and Buckden, stopping in Kettlewell. Kettlewell is also served by the DalesBus 874/857 service on Sundays in the summer months. If you’re getting to the Yorkshire Dales by train – Skipton would be your best bet – I always book my train tickets in advance on Trainline. If you’re flying, Leeds Bradford or Manchester Airport will be closest. I use Skyscanner to book flights. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Great Whernside is one of my favorite walks in Wharfedale, and in the Yorkshire Dales. It’s challenging, but not too difficult or too long. The scenery is simply magnificent (on a good day!), and Kettlewell is a great place to start and finish your walk. I hope this post helps planning your walk up Great Whernside in Upper Wharfedale!
Have you hiked Great Whernside or visited Wharfedale?
You might also like my posts:
The BEST Places to Visit in the Yorkshire Dales
Exploring Wharfedale: Hiking From Grassington to Hebden in the Yorkshire Dales
Hiking Ingleborough From Clapham in the Yorkshire Dales
Whernside: The Highest Peak in Yorkshire
The Prettiest Villages to See in Swaledale
A Quick Guide to Aysgarth Falls in the Yorkshire Dales
The Ultimate Yorkshire Guide: 88 Incredible Places to Visit in Yorkshire
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