UPDATED JULY 2023! The North Coast 500 is one of the most epic road trips you can take in the UK! Having done this trip last year, I thought I’d do a full information post on what you should know before you go. This trip may require a bit more planning than you’re used to. But trust me when I say that it’s worth it! Here’s everything you need to know about the North Coast 500 in Scotland before you go!

EDIT: I took this trip in August-September 2020, and this post was written and ready to publish before my marriage ended. I have decided not to edit the original post.

What is the North Coast 500?

The North Coast 500 is a 516-mile scenic route along the north coast of Scotland. It starts and ends in Inverness (although we did it a bit different!). It was launched in 2015 and is sometimes referred to as “Scotland’s Route 66.” It’s up to you whether you choose to go clockwise (up the west coast, then east across the north coast) or counter-clockwise (up the north coast, west across the north coast, south along the west coast). But I chose to go counter-clockwise from Inverness and I’m really glad I did. I think this is the best way to do the trip! The first day north of Inverness isn’t nearly as incredible as the scenery around Torridon and Applecross on the last day. But it’s really up to you.

How Many Days to Do the North Coast 500?

I spent a full 7 days doing the NC500, and I would definitely advise setting aside a week to do the trip. At the bare minimum, you could probably do the NC500 in 5 full days. However, you won’t have time to get out and do many hikes. And you’ll probably find that you have to skip over places if you only have 5 days. Unfortunately, several excursions (such as Cape Wrath, Handa island, etc) weren’t running due to coronavirus or had already finished for the season when we went. Had these been operating, we easily could have added in another 2-3 days with these. Throw in a few longer hikes like Suilven (7-9 hours), An Teallach (7-11 hours), or Ben Loyal (6 hours), and you could easily spend two weeks of 14 full days doing the NC500. If you’re wanting a bit of a detour, definitely make the trip over to Orkney! A lot of people visit as a daytrip, but I recommend at least 3 days – ideally, you should have 5-7 days to explore Orkney.

When is the Best Time of Year to Do the North Coast 500?

May-September is the most popular time to do the North Coast 500, but with good reason. This will be the best chance for good weather, with the warmest temperatures. The midges can be bad in the summer, however the trade-off is better weather. If you’re brave enough, go swimming at the stunning beaches here! In winter, I can imagine some roads can be sketchy/impassable due to snow or ice. Bealach na Bà near Applecross is often closed in winter. Cold temperatures and snow/ice will mean some hikes will be off limits without specialist winter gear (like crampons). There will also likely be little daylight in winter as well. In September it was still light until about 9pm on the north coast! But in December, sunset is around 3:30pm. There’s just not enough daylight/time to see all of the sights during the same amount of time in winter.

Driving the North Coast 500

Keep in mind this is a road trip. There is very limited public transportation (if any) between stops and so you will need a car to get around and do the trip. (Although you can bike or walk all 500+ miles if you want!) A lot of the roads are single-track roads with passing places. The tarmac is only wide enough to fit one car, so you’ll need to pull over into the passing place if you meet another car, or stop at a passing place for another car to go around you. This might mean reversing back if the nearest passing place is behind you. Many of the single-track roads go over steep mountains with next to no visibility. And of course, keep in mind that they drive on the left in the UK (you can read about my struggles with driving in the UK here!). Distances might not seem far, however it might take a long time to get there due to the roads you’re driving on! If you’re not up to driving, you can check out a few options for multi-day tours below.

The most important thing to remember about driving the NC500 is to be cautious and courteous. The speed limit is technically 60 miles per hour on single-carriageways. However this is what Adam calls a “common sense 60.” Use your common sense – a lot of the time, it is not safe to drive 60mph. It might not even be safe enough to drive 30mph! Be a considerate driver and remember that locals need to use these roads every day. If you are driving slow and notice cars piling up behind you, pull over and let them pass. On the other hand, don’t pass other cars unless it’s truly safe to do so. If you get stuck behind a slow driver (or a tractor) (or a herd of sheep or cows), be patient. You will be driving a lot of narrow, winding, roads – sometimes up and down mountains. Sheep or wildlife can and will wander in front of your car into the middle of the road, with no warning. Caution is key.

And don’t forget to wave! If a driver pulls over to a passing place for you to go around, it is common courtesy (aka a basically sacred custom) to politely acknowledge them by putting your hand up. We started sometimes giving other drivers a thumbs up after it happened to us a few times on Skye! If it’s dark, flash your lights to say thanks. This is really basic and people will be annoyed if they pull over for you and you don’t acknowledge them or say thank you.

A lot of locals have been fed up in recent times with the number of campervans and caravans on the North Coast 500 and inconsiderate drivers. These clog up the roads for everyone. While this is a fantastic way to travel around this part of Scotland, keep this in mind. Be as courteous and cautious as you need to be to drive safely, and allow other cars to pass you when appropriate.

Please remember it is illegal to use your phone if you are driving in Scotland. Even just touching your phone to bring up directions is illegal. Let the passenger be in charge of phones and directions, and let the driver focus on driving.

Drunk driving is taken seriously in Scotland, and the laws are actually stricter here than in the rest of the UK. The legal alcohol limit is lower in Scotland than it is in England for example (find out more from the Scottish government here). Designate a driver if you’re visiting a pub, distillery, or brewery who won’t be drinking. (Although some distilleries will give samples from tours to-go/takeaway so the driver can enjoy it later at the end of the driving day.) If you are drinking a lot in an evening, remember your body will need extra time in the morning to safely process the alcohol out of your system. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. Please be safe.

Parking on the North Coast 500

Nearly everywhere on the North Coast 500 has parking (car parks or laybys) that are free of charge. The one exception is John O’Groats, where there is a small charge for all-day parking. There were only a few places where we struggled to find a place to park when we showed up: Smoo Cave, Ceannabeine Beach, and Corrieshalloch Gorge (we got the last space). There are lots of laybys where you can safely pull over and get out of the car to take photos. I did this all the time! If there’s a good view or a scenic overlook, you will most likely be able to pull over and park safely. Remember to park respectfully. Do not park in front of gates or blocking access, and do not EVER park in a passing place. If you park in a passing place, you are obstructing the entire road and everyone on it.

Where to Stay on the North Coast 500?

We wild camped the entire time. Wild camping is legal anywhere in Scotland within reason, with the exception of the byelaws for Loch Lomond. It was completely free and as responsible campers, we followed the Scottish Outdoor Access Code throughout our trip. The main component of this is to LEAVE NO TRACE. Take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints. If you cannot leave no trace and follow the outdoor access code, do not wild camp. If you’re interested in where exactly we camped, email me (awaywithmaja@gmail.com) or message me on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter and I’m happy to share more details! We saved a lot of money on accommodation by wild camping for free. We both love the freedom of wild camping, and it meant we could spend a lot of money on food and eating out!

If you’re not wanting to wild camp, there are lots of campsites throughout the NC500 route. Many of these will need to be booked in advance, although some are done on a first come first served basis on the day. Some places like Durness and Torridon have established hostels. There are of course B&Bs, hotels, and options on Airbnb – these tend to be clustered more around towns/villages. You absolutely must book accommodation well in advance – as in, several months in advance at least. There aren’t as many options as this is such a remote region, which means places will get booked out. Booking in advance is the best option! You can view accommodation options here, or you can check on Airbnb, too.

Booking.com

How Much Does it Cost to Do the North Coast 500?

Check out my full budget post on the North Coast 500 to find out how much I spent! This depends entirely on how much money you want to spend, and whether you’ll be camping or staying in B&B/hotel/hostel accommodation on the way. If you want to travel on a budget, camping is a great way to cut costs. There are many campsites you can stay at along the way, otherwise wild camping is legal in Scotland and free. If you plan on bringing some of your own food, you can also save a lot of money. We brought easy ready meals like pot noodles that just require boiling water! We usually ate out for at least one big meal per day, and then had our own food for another meal. Bigger places like Inverness and Ullapool had the cheapest gas, but it wasn’t prohibitively expensive in smaller towns and villages. We also didn’t need to rent a car, or book flights, as we drove up from York in our own car. Inverness is the nearest airport – I use Skyscanner to book flights.

What to Pack For the North Coast 500?

I’ve got a whole blog post on what to pack for the North Coast 500! To list a few vital items, I recommend sturdy (waterproof) footwear – I love my Scarpa Mistral hiking boots. A waterproof rain jacket and rain pants are a must. I’d also recommend bringing a hat or buff and gloves – even in summer, I still used them a few times since it was so windy! Do not attempt the North Coast 500 in summer without midge spray – I use Smidge and find it works really well. Having a map or atlas of Scotland or of the North Coast 500 is essential. To be environmentally friendly, bring your own reusable water bottle too. Remember to support the local economy and spend your money in local shops and businesses along the way! You can find my full outdoor gear guide here.

How Do I Survive the Midges on the North Coast 500?

Seriously, be prepared and buy midge spray beforehand. These gnat-like tiny bugs might be small, but when they’re everywhere (going up your nose, in your eyes, etc.) they are nothing short of evil. If you’re doing the North Coast 500 in summer (and yes, I think you should!), be prepared! You might also want to invest in a midge headnet – I only had to use it once or twice on my trip, but I’m glad I had it. Also remember that there are ticks in this part of Scotland. I only saw one tick the entirety of our trip, when I brushed against long grass to take a photo and found a tiny tick on my hand three seconds later. As ticks can transmit Lyme’s Disease, they are not to be underestimated. If you’re spending any time outdoors at all (and you will be!), especially if you’re hiking, make sure to check for ticks after hikes or at least at the end of the day. You can find out more information on ticks from the Highlands Council.

What is Phone Signal Like on the North Coast 500?

There are many parts of the North Coast 500 where there is no phone signal. You likely won’t have access to wifi or your phone on some days – so keep this in mind when you are planning your day. I recommend downloading Google Maps (offline) so you can pull up directions even when you have no signal. Alternately, load up directions for the day before you leave your accommodation/wifi/signal range. Don’t rely solely on your phone, make sure you have a (paper) map for directions. The North Coast 500 is an amazing chance to disconnect and enjoy some time offline!

Doing the North Coast 500 Solo?

This is one trip I would recommend not going solo. While Scotland is a very safe destination for solo travelers (including solo female travelers), the North Coast 500 is one trip I would really do with a travel buddy. For one thing, it would be a lot of driving. Having another person to split the driving with, and help with directions/navigating the roads, is a huge bonus! This also means it is cheaper to split car rental/gas. Many campsites will charge per tent/car, and B&Bs and hotels are usually geared for two people anyways, so it will really keep costs down if you go with another person.

The remoteness of the North Coast 500, and the drama of the scenery, is one of the main draws of the trip. But I can imagine it would be a bit intimidating for first-time solo travelers. There are literally just so few people in this area that I think it would feel a bit lonely. While yes, you can meet people doing the North Coast 500 (we hung out with an awesome couple in their van our first night, and saw them two days later coming down Ben Hope!), if you’re wild camping instead of camping at campsites or staying in accommodation, there won’t be as many opportunities to meet others.
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Resources For the North Coast 500

While of course blogs are amazing resources, there are a few websites to bookmark if you are doing the North Coast 500 around Scotland!

NC500 App – first of all, download the official NC500 app (Google Play or App Store). This has loads of information on things to see and do on the way! You can also check out the official website.

Highlands Public Conveniences – this handy site has an interactive map to see all of the public toilets in the Highlands. This was simply a lifesaver! All of the toilets I went to on here were free, and ladies every single one had toilet paper praise be!

Scottish Outdoor Access Code – if you are planning on hiking or camping on the North Coast 500 (and you should!), make sure to read up on the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. This gives the guidelines for how to respect the outdoors—the important thing is to always remember leave no trace.

Walk Highlands – a fantastic website full of excellent walks around the Highlands, I used this site on pretty much every hike I did on the North Coast 500.

OS Maps App – I use this app on pretty much every hike I do in the UK now. It’s great to download routes offline so you can use when there’s no wifi/phone signal!

Google Maps (Offline) – we downloaded an offline version of Google Maps and it worked great for us, although we probably used our road atlas more. Keep in mind there isn’t phone signal (or wifi) for large parts of the North Coast 500. This is a great chance to disconnect, so don’t plan on relying solely on your phone.

The North Coast 500 is one of the most phenomenal trips I’ve been on in the UK. This truly is one for the bucket list, and with some planning and preparation it will be an amazing trip! I hope this post helps in planning a trip around the North Coast 500 in Scotland.

Have you done the North Coast 500 before? What advice or travel tips do you have?!

You might like my other posts:

A 7-Day Itinerary For Scotland’s North Coast 500 Road Trip

How Much Does it Cost to Do the North Coast 500 in Scotland?

What to Pack For the North Coast 500 in Scotland

The Best Beaches on Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route

Hiking Ben Hope: Scotland’s Most Northern Munro

Sandwood Bay: Hiking to Britian’s Most Beautiful Beach

What to See and Do in And Around Inverness

12 Tip For Planning Your Scottish Highlands Road Trip

Alternative Isle of Skye: 4 Ways to Avoid the Crowds

My Outdoor Gear Guide For Hiking and Camping in the UK

The Complete Orkney Guide: An 8-Day Itinerary for the Orkney Islands

All Scotland posts!

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