After a fantastic trip to Dumfries and Galloway in May, I decided I needed to get back to Scotland ASAP, and made up my mind to (finally) visit the Isle of Mull in June! It is a truly phenomenal part of Scotland, and I cannot recommend it enough.

Real talk? I decided to go here because I started chatting to a woman puffin-watching at Bempton Cliffs. She said that if there was any way I could get up to Mull in Scotland to see puffins, to do it. Well, that was all it took to convince me! I sorted work stuff out and set off to explore Mull (and Iona) in the Inner Hebrides. Here’s my guide for how to make the most of a long weekend trip to the Isle of Mull in Scotland!

How to get to the Isle of Mull

You travel to Mull by Calmac Ferry from Oban, on the mainland of Scotland. The journey from Oban to Craignure on Mull takes about 1 hour. There’s not much in Craignure, but there are a few shops so you can stock up after you arrive or before you leave if need be. I found the ferry cost pretty affordable: I paid £36 for one passenger and a car return, booked about two weeks in advance. I recommend booking in advance if at all possible. Ferries in Scotland do fill up, and you don’t want to waste any time when you could be exploring the Scottish islands!

On the journey to Mull, the specific ferry was a smaller one, and car passengers needed to stay in their vehicles due to social distancing restrictions. The return journey was on a bigger ferry. So I could get out, walk around the decks, and most importantly take some pictures of the view coming into Oban!

Driving on the Isle of Mull

If you have never driven in rural Scotland (or rural Britain for that matter), you should be prepare yourself for the roads on Mull. There is only one “real” road, from Craignure north to Salen, and a short stretch outside of Tobermory. The rest of the island is navigated by single-track roads. These roads are only wide enough to fit one car, so if you meet another car you will need to use a passing place. I found Mull (particularly the road from Craignure to Fionnphort) to be pretty excellent, with regular passing places which were usually easy to spot thanks to posts.

Distances aren’t that far on Mull, but it takes a long time to get anywhere because it’s mainly all single-track roads. If you’re not used to driving on single-track roads, drive cautiously and be courteous to other drivers. I regularly pulled over for other cars to let them pass me, as I knew that they were confident/comfortable enough to drive faster than me. There is absolutely nothing embarrassing about this, and I think locals will really appreciate you moving out of their way (literally) so they can get to work/school/wherever they need to be. Remember to wave/thank/acknowledge/flash your lights if a car yields to you and pulls into a passing place. This is a very basic common courtesy and expected from drivers. (Read more about my experience driving in the UK here!)

What to See on the Isle of Mull

Mull is simply INCREDIBLE! There is so much to see and do here, and I definitely could have spent another 1-3 days just on Mull doing hikes and checking out beaches. Here are the best things to do on Mull!

Duart Castle

Just under a 10-minute drive from Craignure, Duart Castle is one of the most impressive sights on the Isle of Mull. It’s the home of Clan Maclean, and dates back to the 13^th century. Sitting on a hill overlooking the sea surrounding Craignure, its position allowed it to stand guard over the island. There are several floors of exhibits inside the castle. I also recommend the very short, circular walk around the base of the castle too! You can see where a warship of Oliver Cromwell’s fleet was shipwrecked, which is just off the point near the castle.

Ben More

Whether you’re bagging Munros or just enjoy challenging walks, Ben More is the one hike you simply must do on the Isle of Mull. At 966 meters it’s the only Munro on the Isle of Mull. There’s lots of space for parking near Dhiseig on the shore of Loch na Keal, the easiest route is a straight out and back all the way up to the summit. It took me just under 4 hours total there and back. While I lost my views in the clouds during the scree-filled last stretch to the summit, the views over Mull (and Ulva and Iona) were simply incredible. You can check out WalkHighlands’ route for hiking Ben More.

Tobermory

One of the prettiest harbors in all of Scotland (although Portree on Skye is definitely a competitor), Tobermory is one of the main places to visit on Mull. The colorful, picture-perfect buildings stretch the length of the harbor and make for a perfect photo opportunity. There’s not loads in Tobermory, but it is home to Tobermory Distillery, which you should definitely visit. I stocked up on some whisky from the shop here! There are lots of cute, independent shops, cafes, restaurants, a gallery or two, a museum, and several hotels in Tobermory.

Calgary Bay

One of the most beautiful beaches on the Isle of Mull, you can’t miss visiting Calgary Bay. This will always be a special place to me, as I was immensely proud of all the driving I’d done around Mull to get there—so proud that I decided to go for a swim in the ocean!! Calgary Bay is stunning and the feeling of running into the ocean—chilly as it may be—is amazing.

There are a few walks around here that I wish I had had a chance to do, but didn’t quite have enough time! Langamull Beach is about a 2-hour walk roundtrip. There’s also this walk out to a whisky cave, which takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. If I had had another day, I would have definitely done both of these!

Eas Fors Waterfall

Eas Fors Waterfall is a bit tucked away off the road. There’s a parking area just north of the Ulva ferry point, north of Lagganulva. You can see part of the waterfall north of the road, but the best bit is seeing the falls cascade and drop down over the cliff to the sea. I can imagine there are some incredible opportunities for drone shots here!

Lochbuie

One of my favorite parts of the Isle of Mull is Lochbuie. It’s a bit of a drive from the main road, but it’s definitely worth it. At the end of the road, you’ll find a cute café, the Old Post Office. Make sure you walk out to see the Standing Stones—there is room for 2 or 3 cars, and it’s about a 10-15 minute walk from the road to see the stone circle. Moy Castle is another can’t-miss sight—it’s just ruins now, but well worth the 15-20 minute walk there from the Lochbuie parking area. If you have more time, carry on to Laggan Sands beach. Lochbuie is a great place to spot sea eagles, otters, and deer.

Carsaig Arches

I ran out of time to see Carsaig Arches, which is meant to be one of the best walks on Mull along the coast! I’d recommend reading up on WalkHighlands’ post on Carsaig Arches to make sure you’re prepared. I’d pay special attention to their warnings and caution about the trail to the second arch.

Uisken Beach

This might just be my favorite beach on the Isle of Mull! I wasn’t expecting crystal-clear blue waters and white sand but Uisken Beach delivered. I mean, when the water looks this spectacular how can you not go swimming?! Don’t miss this on a trip to Mull.

Knockvolgan Beach

This beach requires a bit more work, as it’s roughly a 10-minute walk to the water from where you can park. This is another beautiful white sand beach, it’s easy to follow the path down there. If you time it right, you can walk over to the tidal island of Erraid. There is room for about 5-6 cars outside the farmhouse at Knockvolgan Farm. Just make sure you park respectfully and don’t block any farm access.

Fidden Beach

Another spectacular beach on the Isle of Mull, Fidden Beach is another sandy beach with clear, blue water. The best reason to stay at Fidden Farm campsite is to wake up to those views!

Fionnphort

Fionnphort is the small village where you can take the ferry over to Iona. There’s not much here besides the ferry terminal, but there is a pretty beach, a shop, and a pub. There’s a good chance you might spot dolphins here, otherwise you can enjoy the views over to Iona!

If I had had more time, I would have loved to see Ulva. There aren’t any tarmac roads on Ulva (so no cars), but it’s meant to be great for birdwatching and scenery. Next time, I’ll hopefully have more time to see it!

What to See on Iona

Iona is a small island, reached by a short 10-minute ferry from Fionnphort on the Isle of Mull. There are no cars allowed on the island, besides for locals—so you’ll need to get around on your own. I expected to spend just a few hours on Iona but regretted it immediately. You need at least half a day, if not a full day, to experience all of what Iona has to offer. If you want a relaxing, quiet getaway to find peace, solitude, and experience island life, Iona would make a great place to stay for a few nights. It’s known as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland.

On my ferry journey back, we saw dolphins jumping through the water!!! The ferry captain turned the ferry around and stopped so we could see them! I couldn’t believe my eyes, I felt so lucky and so fortunate. So keep your eyes peeled for dolphins on the crossing!

Iona Abbey

By far the most popular place to visit on Iona is Iona Abbey. Originally founded by St. Columba back in 563, Iona Abbey has been a pilgrimage site since the 7^th century. You can see ancient crosses, the beautiful, 13^th-century church, and the museum at this complex. If you are visiting Mull or Iona, you can’t miss a visit to Iona Abbey.

Baile Mor

The main village on Iona is Baile Mor, which is home to the ferry terminal connecting Iona with Mull (and therefore with the mainland). This is where you’ll find the shop and the very quaint post office. Most of the accommodation, restaurants, and craft shops will be found between the ferry terminal and Iona Abbey. The beaches around here are simply stunning.

Dun I

For the best view on Iona, climb up to Dun I, the hill which is the highest point on the island. At only 101 meters, it doesn’t take long to hike up—but the views from the top are well worth it. Walking along the road from Iona Abbey, look for a gate just past a row of white cottages on the left. Follow the path up to the top, which has a large cairn.

Back of the Bay Beach

The weather was too good and Iona was too beautiful, so I had to spend a bit more time exploring. I walked out to Back of the Bay Beach, which was beautiful. It’s a rocky beach, not sandy—so maybe not the best for swimming. But the views here are incredible. Besides a family meeting up for a picnic, there was only one other person here besides me. It was beautifully peaceful and secluded.

All of the beaches on Iona

A picture is worth a thousand words. Iona’s beaches are some of the best I’ve seen in my entire life, both in Scotland, in the UK, and in the world in general. Don’t miss out.

Daytrip: Staffa and Treshnish Isles (Lunga)

If you’re heading to Mull, you need to set aside a day to visit Staffa—and if you time it right, the Treshnish Isles too. This was one of the most incredible days of my life! You can read my full blog post on the Staffa and Treshnish Isles daytrip here. I booked a day tour with Staffa Tours, to see Staffa and the Treshnish Isles.

We had a good amount of time to explore Staffa, including Fingal’s Cave, before sailing to Lunga.

The real draw here is puffins: the Treshnish Isles are one of the best destinations to see puffins in the UK! I can’t put into words how amazing it was to see these cuties up close and personal, and to spend a couple hours watching them and photographing them. It was one of the best experiences I’ve had in my life. You can’t miss this when visiting the Isle of Mull.

Planning Your Trip

I wild camped, but not really—I basically stayed at designated “wild camping” sites on the Isle of Mull. My favorite by far was Calgary Bay. Not only did it have easy access for swimming, but there were toilets close by which was a real luxury. I also camped at Lochbuie and Uisken Beach. Calgary Bay and Lochbuie are run on a donation basis (£2-5 recommended). At Uisken Beach, you need to stop by the bungalow to ask permission for camping and pay the small £2 fee. If you’re (wild) camping, you need to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code at all times, and make sure to leave to trace. Check out my outdoor gear guide for recommendations on what to bring!

If you’re not wanting to camp, there are plenty of accommodation options too. You can search for hostels here, and for hotels and B&Bs here. You can also sign up to and search Airbnb here.

Booking.com

 

To see the best of the Isle of Mull, you really need to have your own car—but it is possible to visit with public transportation. There is a train station in Oban, where you can take the ferry as foot passenger. There is a public bus service from Craignure to both Tobermory and Fionnphort, so you can visit the north of Mull or Iona without driving. I always book my train tickets in advance with Trainline. If you’re flying, Oban and Glasgow are the nearest airports – I book flights through Skyscanner.

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Looking for a tour? Check out these multi-day options to explore Mull and Iona!

 

The Isle of Mull was one of the most amazing places I’ve been, cementing the fact that Scotland is truly unique and spectacular. Visiting Iona, Staffa, and seeing the puffins on Lunga were extraordinary experiences that I’ll remember forever. I took this trip on a whim, but it’s one of the best places I’ve been in Scotland (and in the UK in general). I hope this post helps planning a trip to the Isle of Mull and Iona!

Have you ever been to Mull or Iona? What were your favorite places?!

You might like my other posts:

Isle of Mull Daytrip: Staffa and Puffin-Watching on Lunga

The Isle of Arran: A Guide to Scotland in Miniature

Alternative Isle of Skye: 4 Ways to Avoid the Crowds

A 7-Day Itinerary For the North Coast 500 in Scotland

What to See and Do in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland

How to Spend 48 Hours in Glagow

What to Do and See in and Around Inverness

All of my Scotland posts!

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